Prime's Clippings February 2019

70 Degrees on January 31... Deja vu! Four years in a row now we have seen mid-winter highs in the seventies, and this year possibly setting a record high on February 4th in the eighties! But not to worry, lows are predicted to be back in the twenties by the 8th. Now that’s a typical Texas winter. We have had a decent winter with enough cold weather to keep the bugs at bay, plenty of rain, and no ice storms yet. It got just dry enough at the end of January to need a little water on rye and pansies, but otherwise we have been able to leave the water in the lakes this winter. Last winter was dryer and we did not have many weeds. This year the heavy rains in October—November are making this a weedy spring with henbit and other cool season weeds rampant. We are busy putting out our first winter weed application to try and keep the lawns pristine. Our crews are busy cutting back roses, perennials, and grasses, so please let us know if you are not already on a regular schedule for these chores. It’s easy to get spring fever in February when we have these balmy afternoons, but don’t get too carried away. There will be more winter yet.   It's Already Time For Veggie Gardens Backyard vegetable gardens are becoming more popular, and getting kids involved in gardening can provide them with a healthy activity, healthy food, and a learning experience too. Tomatoes are all well and good in April, but there are lots of easy to grow veggies that you can plant right now: onions, potatoes, cabbages, broccoli, carrots, radishes, lettuce, and greens like collards and spinach. For a kid’s garden, consider a small patch of potatoes. Buy a few seed potatoes at your local feed store, cut them in thirds or quarters and dry for few days on newspaper, the plant “eye’ side up in deep loose soil. In about 3 months your kids can dig up fresh taters and you can give them a learning experience in the kitchen!   Emerald Ash Borer - A New Pest To Watch For Ash trees are widely planted throughout our area, and Texas ash, Fraxinus texensis, is also native to our area. Arizona ash were widely planted in the past and are not the best choice, but Texas ash is well suited to the climate and soils here and have had minimal pest and disease issues. However, a small insect, the emerald ash borer is destroying ash trees throughout about a third of our country and now has been positively identified in the north Fort Worth area. Thought to have been brought to our country from northeast Asia in shipping material in the 1990s, it has spread rapidly from a core population in Michigan. It’s range is now estimated from Colorado to Texas, east to Massachusetts, and north into Canada. Infestations are usually fatal. Adult beetles feed on ash leaves and deposit eggs on the bark of their ash hosts. The eggs hatch and the tiny larvae penetrate the bark to feed on water conducting tissues inside the tree.Within 2-3 years the tree loses the ability to conduct sap, and succumbs to the infestation. Within 10 years of initial invasion all untreated ash trees in an invaded area are expected to die. Due to the high mortality rate and rapid spread, it may be prudent for properties with ash trees to monitor their trees and consider a preventative program. Borers are very difficult to treat once a tree is infested and it is unlikely that the pest can be eliminated. Monitoring is difficult at best. The mature beetles are tiny, less than a half-inch long and metallic green in color. Adults may be present during summer. Signs of infestation are similar to symptoms of many other problems such as heat stress or drought—premature yellowing, branch die-back, etc. The holes left by EAB as they exit the tree are D shaped, but again, seeing these holes means the tree may already be infected. Usually by the time you notice signs of infestation it is too late, but you could start preventative measures for any other ash trees in the area. A preventative program would be similar to what we have recommended for crape myrtle scale. A systemic insecticide is applied to the root zone of the tree in late winter/early spring. The insecticide is taken up by the tree making parts of the plant toxic to the insect. Additionally, dormant oil may be applied while the tree is dormant. This article is not meant to alarm, but rather to make you aware that this devastating pest is potentially invading our area. And if you have ash trees on your property, you should pay attention to announcements by Texas A&M and be prepared to take action.    Spring Scents Are Just a Few Weeks Away It may still be the middle of winter here, but we have lots of plants that will begin blooming any day now, and many have a wonderful fragrance. Some daffodils and paperwhites are already in bloom, and they will soon be joined by jonquils, hyacinths, and other spring bulbs. Flowering trees like our native Mexican Plum and other types of fruit trees will bloom soon, and the Mexican plums in particular will perfume the air in your entire yard. Mahonias are sporting yellow flowers now that will form grape-like clusters of purple fruit later. There are a few old-timey shrubs that may merit a place in your garden to lift you out of your mid-winter blues. Flowering quince is covered with beautiful red, pink, or white blooms in February. Old fashioned forsythia is a cheerfully yellow harbinger of spring that will also delight your nose. Winter flowering honeysuckle is a semi-deciduous shrub that produces sweetly scented white flowers in February, and Jasminum nudiflorum, winter flowering jasmine, is a durable shrub covered with tiny yellow flowers around the same time. Enjoy!

February Chores Cut back Asian jasmine, liriope, and roses Treat crape myrtles with dormant oil for bark scale Make major pruning changes to overgrown shrubs Prune low limbs on trees Prune dormant perennials and fountain grasses Plant and transplant trees and shrubs Apply pre-emergent and broadleaf herbicides Change water and clean water gardens and koi ponds   Our goal is to fulfill the needs of the customer by providing timely, quality services and products. Thanks for your business! Greg and Mindy Hamann

Prime's Clippings February 2018

70 Degrees on January 31... Deja vu! Three years in a row now I have mentioned that January was ending with highs in the seventies! I guess Texas weather is consistent year after year—Ha! But even the freezes have been somewhat similar to last year with two really hard ones and freeze burn on a lot of plants. We are running a rain deficit again too, and that makes it hard on shrubs, flowers, and even St. Augustine when we get these 12-15 degree cold snaps. Winter is nowhere near over, so pay attention and water before the next hard freeze. The dry conditions and cold snaps have kept winter weeds at bay. No, it was not just our great pre-emergent applications - weather is the biggest factor. As soon as we get some rain expect to see henbit and other cool weeds start to show. We are busy putting out our first winter weed application to try and keep the lawns pristine. Our crews are busy cutting back roses, perennials, and grasses, so please let us know if you are not already on a regular schedule for these chores. It is easy to get spring fever in February when we have these balmy afternoons, but don’t get too carried away. There will be more winter yet.    Our Annual Mulch Special Continues Through February Mulching your beds is absolutely the best thing you can do for the health of your soil and plants. Remember: mulch reduces weeds, improves soil structure, conserves moisture, protects plants from extreme cold and summer heat, and gives your beds a neat appearance. How much do I need? We recommend adding 2” to existing mulch or 3” to un-mulched areas. A 2 cu ft bag will cover about 10 sq ft 2” deep or 7 sq ft 3” deep Take Advantage Now! Mention our newsletter for 15% off normal prices.  Prices Include Delivery and Installation!  (extra charges may apply for bed weeding or leaf clean-ups if needed)  DISCOUNTED PRICES: Hardwood: $5.50 per 2 cu ft bag Dark brown, enriches soil as it decomposes Cedar: $6.00 per 2 cu ft bag Great cedar smell, lighter color, lasts longer Red or Black Mulch: $6.00 per bag For a decorative look   A Serious Problem For Crape Myrtles Crape myrtles are a wonderfully versatile shrub or small tree that has been widely planted in north Texas for perhaps as many as a hundred years and with good reasons. They are well suited to the climate and soils of a large part of Texas and have had only minor pest and disease issues. However, there is a type of felt or bark scale that first appeared around 2004 and is doing serious damage to our crapes. Look for a black (sooty mold) coating on the bark of the trunk and on the branches. The insects appear as white, waxy encrustations likely to occur anywhere on the plant. Larger female scales “bleed” a pink liquid when crushed. Careful examination may reveal dozens of pink eggs under some of the larger white scale covers. The best research has found that dormant oil sprayed before the leaves emerge and a systemic insecticide containing imacloprid will need to be applied in spring and possibly 1-2 more times through the season. On small crapes with minor infestations you can also wash and rub the scale off with soapy water. Anytime we are trying to control an undesirable insect pest we must consider the negative impact on beneficial insects, especially honeybees and those that prey on the target pest. This is called IPM, integrated pest management. The twice-stabbed lady beetle is a natural predator of scale insects. A&M found that the dormant oils and systemic insecticides had the least impact on beneficials. And contact insecticides not only kill more beneficials, they also are not as effective after the scale has matured and developed it’s waxy armor. The scale nymphs will begin crawling in early April and then attach and begin feeding. They become covered with a waxy shell and may have up to 4 generations of eggs in a season. After hatching, the tiny crawlers emerge from under the scale and spread out on the same plant, or are windblown or travel on birds to other plants. The scale detracts from the beauty of the crape, diminishes it’s vigor, and reduces blooming. The weakened plants may become stressed enough to die. If you have noticed these symptoms or are concerned that your crapes may become infected, call for an evaluation and treatment plan. We need to apply dormant oil and insecticide within the next two months to be most effective.   Spring Scents Are Just a Few Weeks Away Yes, it is still winter and we don’t need to get ahead of ourselves. But in just a few weeks you may be able to catch the smell of spring in the air. We have several plants that will begin blooming as early as mid-February, and many have a wonderful fragrance. Daffodils, jonquils, hyacinths, and paperwhites will be in bloom soon, and some varieties are heavily scented. Paperwhites are often forced and sold as indoor blooming plants, but several will naturalize here and the perfume is almost overwhelming. Some of our flowering trees will bloom by early March, and our native Mexican Plum is among the earliest and most fragrant. Chaenomeles japonica, or flowering quince, is a rather homely shrub best suited in the back of the bed, but it is covered with beautiful red, pink, or white blooms in February-March with a soft scent. Old fashioned forsythia is a cheerfully yellow harbinger of spring that will also delight your nose. Winter flowering honeysuckle, Lonicera fragrantissima, is a deciduous shrub that produces sweetly scented white flowers in February, and Jasminum nudiflorum, winter flowering jasmine, is a durable shrub covered with a mass of tiny yellow flowers around the same time. Ironically, the heavily planted Bradford pear may be beautiful when it blooms, but actually has a scent that has been compared to rotten fish and worse. It is a fairly weak, short-lived tree anyway, so lets avoid that one! February Chores Cut back Asian jasmine, liriope, and roses Treat crape myrtles with dormant oil for bark scale Make major pruning changes to overgrown shrubs Prune low limbs on trees Prune dormant perennials and fountain grasses Plant and transplant trees and shrubs Apply pre-emergent and broadleaf herbicides Change water and clean water gardens and koi ponds   Our goal is to fulfill the needs of the customer by providing timely, quality services and products. Thanks for your business! Greg Hamann Owner

Prime's Clippings January 2018

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year from all of us at Prime Landscape

Welcome 2018 We hope everyone enjoyed the end of year festivities and seasonally cold weather for the holidays. Maybe a little hard to enjoy the 16 degree icy start on New Years Eve, but a little winter weather can be a good thing for bugs and weeds. A freeze like this that lasts for more than a few days will generally damage all zone 9 and some zone 8 plants. We have good soil moisture now so our plants have a good shot at coming through this okay, but there will inevitably be a few broken pipes. We are always excited about the possibilities a new year brings- except for ice storms! We are adding on to our building and updating equipment in our ongoing effort to provide the best possible service. We appreciate all of our great clients and welcome your feedback. You can always reach out to us at contactus@primelandscapeservices.com if there's anything you need.   Our Annual Mulch Special is Here Mulching your beds is absolutely the best thing you can do for the health of your soil and plants. Remember: mulch reduces weeds, improves soil structure, conserves moisture, protects plants from extreme cold and summer heat, and gives your beds a neat appearance. How much do I need? We recommend adding 2” to existing mulch or 3” to un-mulched areas. A 2 cu ft bag will cover about 10 sq ft 2” deep or 7 sq ft 3” deep Take Advantage Now! Mention our newsletter for 15% off normal prices.  Prices Include Delivery and Installation!  (extra charges may apply for bed weeding or leaf clean-ups if needed)  DISCOUNTED PRICES: Hardwood: $5.50 per 2 cu ft bag Dark brown, enriches soil as it decomposes Cedar: $6.00 per 2 cu ft bag Great cedar smell, lighter color, lasts longer Red or Black Mulch: $6.00 per bag For a decorative look   Winter Chores Leaves: Most of our leaves are down and we should finish the last of our leaf clean ups in early January. Some trees like Shumard oak are still holding their leaves but should finish dropping any day now. Live oaks drop in Feb - March, giving us another round of leaf clean-ups in late winter. If we haven’t gotten to yours and at any time this winter you need a clean up please call to let us know. Remember too that we clean gutters! Let us know if we can help you with that! Weeds: Our first round of Spring pre-emergent weed control will start in January-February. This application and the next one in March also contain a broadleaf weed killer for any dandelions, henbit, or chickweed that have come up over the last few months. Even when they are caught early it still takes two applications to kill them. Please note that grassy winter weeds like wild rye and rescue grass are very difficult to control. They require spot treatments with specialty herbicides which take several weeks to work. Pruning: Most perennials are dormant now and need to be cut back. Ornamental fountain grasses like Maiden and Muhly grasses look nice for awhile after dormancy but will start to shed and get messy. We will start cutting those back in January as well. Roses should be cut back in February. Winter is also the time to make drastic cuts if you are trying to reduce the size of overgrown shrubs. Groundcovers: Our liriope and Asian jasmine groundcovers should be cut back before they start to put out new growth in spring. With our unpredictable winters it is hard to pick the best time. We normally wait until the end of January to avoid exposing them to temperatures in the teens. Transplanting: January and February are good months for transplanting shrubs and dividing most perennials. However, it is not always practical to transplant large shrubs or trees for several reasons: There are often sprinkler pipes or other plants in close proximity, making it difficult to excavate an appropriate root ball. The labor for transplanting may equal or exceed the cost to install a new plant. And there is always a higher mortality with transplants than with container plants. Tree Trimming: Limb structure is easiest to see when trees are dormant, so winter is a good time to clean up your trees. Remember in Arlington that tree limbs by city code must be kept 14 ft above the street. This is a good idea regardless of where you live, so your limbs are not damaged by delivery trucks and they do not impede emergency vehicles like fire trucks. Planting: Fall and winter are great seasons for planting new shrubs and trees to avoid moisture stress and get the root systems established before summer! Exceptions would be palms or tender zone 8 plants. Planning: And if you are a spring gardener, start lining up your improvement plans now! We routinely book out for several weeks starting in March. And if you are a fellow veggie gardener, winter is when we peruse seed catalogs for inspiration and new varieties to try.   Daffodils- Coming Soon!   Got Ice? We Can Help! Don’t let a winter storm shut your business down or create a hazardous situation for people trying to access your home or business! We aid several of our commercial properties with snow and ice removal, salting, and sanding. We are ready again should the need arise, and can even help homeowners with ice melt for steep driveways and sidewalks. But please call us ahead of time and let us know if you would like de-icing or snow removal services for your home or business before the next big storm.   A Word About Crape Myrtle Pruning Crape myrtles are traditionally pruned in January-February. The horticulturally correct method is to treat a standard tree-form crape like any other tree. Prune entire branches to allow more sunlight into the canopy and reduce overcrowding, remove low branches that are in the way, remove water sprouts and suckers, and strip the seed pods if their appearance bothers you or cut tips of limbs no larger than a pencil. However, many properties and some homeowners want their crapes kept within a certain size range and this limit requires “topping” or more drastic cutting of the crowns. Since we have to administer both techniques, be sure to let us know if you have a preference.

January Chores Finish leaf clean-ups Mulch beds Trim crape myrtles Make major pruning changes to overgrown shrubs Prune low limbs on trees Prune dormant perennials and fountain grasses Plant and transplant trees and shrubs Apply pre-emergent and broadleaf herbicides Change water and clean water gardens and koi ponds   Our goal is to fulfill the needs of the customer by providing timely, quality services and products. Thanks for your business!

Prime's Clippings September 2017

Lonestar Gumweed, grindelia adenodonta

Just a weed to most, beautiful when you take the time to look

 We will be closed Monday, September 4th 

 for Labor Day 

How Many Days 'til Fall?

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August began nicely and was overall a fairly mild month. We certainly had our share of blistering humid days, but the scattered rains throughout north Texas have made this a very bearable summer. Up north, fall dependably begins in September when the kids head back to school. Around here, be prepared for another month or more of hot weather. Maybe we will get lucky though.

Regardless of the difficulty in predicting the onset of cooler weather, September and October are two very important months for north Texas gardeners.

Probably the most important chore coming up is the application of fall pre-emergent weed preventative to our lawns and beds. Equally important is a fall fertilization with a balanced product including potassium for the roots. Some gardening experts will tell you there is a perfect range of days in which to apply pre-emergent, but in truth that range can be quite extensive, and even applications outside of the peak period can be quite effective. But if you are a do-it-yourselfer, this is the single most important application you can make. Don’t forget to do it!

Some other nice things about this time of year are fall veggie gardens and planting new shrubs, trees, and grass. We are on the tail end of planting fall vegetables, but you can still have some success with crops from seed like lettuce, spinach, kale, peas, radishes, and carrots, and even broccoli, cabbage, brussel sprouts, cauliflower and tomatoes if you can find them potted in the nursery.

Milder weather will start to set in, so get ready to enjoy a great time of year.

Late Summer Lawn and Garden Care

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The time to treat for grub worms is passing, but treatments will still be effective if done in the next few weeks. Grubs do some of their worst damage in the fall but as soils cool they stop feeding and move deeper into the soil, becoming harder to control.

We are still several weeks from lawns starting into dormancy so continue to mow weekly and water regularly. See the tips above regarding fall pre-emergent and fertilizing. You may make applications at any time now and into October.

Roses, if you are lucky enough to have some that have not fallen victim to rosette disease, benefit from a light pruning in late August or early September. We often have a great rose bloom in October.

Avoid trimming spring blooming plants like azaleas and spiraeas any more this year as you may be removing spring blooms. Also avoid high nitrogen fertilizers on spring bloomers, but you can still use balanced fertilizers and especially iron or acidifiers for chlorotic plants.

If we get into a wet spell, watch for lawn diseases like brown patch (later) or gray leaf spot (now), and powdery mildew, fungal leaf spot, and scale insects on shrubs. Treat as needed depending on severity so your lawn and plants go into winter healthy and happy.




Time for Rye and Fescue Seeding

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Time for our annual reminder about over-seeding your lawn with ryegrass. A lush green winter lawn creates a nice foreground or background for early spring flowers like azaleas and spiraeas, and sets your home or business apart from the crowd. Over-seeded lawns normally have fewer winter weed issues as weed seeds have a difficult time germinating in the thick green cover provided by healthy turf. Typical winter weather usually brings enough rainfall to keep your rye green with little or no watering once established.

There are two types of rye seed available, annual and perennial. Annual rye seed is the one most commonly used but will need to be mowed every week in the spring. Perennial rye is more refined, with a darker green color and slower rate of growth, is more difficult to germinate. In our area the term perennial is not accurate. Most rye burns out by June. In shady areas or if we have prolonged cool, wet weather into the summer, ryegrass may persist longer.



The normal preparation for over seeding is to mow the lawn a few notches lower and remove the clippings during the last half of September through October. This allows the seed to make better contact with the ground and improves germination. Depending on rainfall, the seed should be watered several times a week until it is up and growing. In about two weeks, lightly touch up any thin areas. Once it is up, mowing will vary depending on the weather and type of seed used, but once every 2-3 weeks is usually the norm until about March. Light fertilizing in December will enhance the appearance.

Pricing: Scalping, over-seeding, and touch up is based on square footage and will run 8 times the cost of a normal mow. If your mowing is $35, your annual rye installation will be $280. Perennial rye would be $52.50 additional.

For larger or commercial properties call or email to request a quote.

Fescue is a northern grass that struggles here in July and August, but there are transitional mixes now that are an option for heavily shaded yards where St Augustine just will not make it. If you have heavy shade and really prefer a lawn there instead of groundcovers or a shade garden, then fescue may be a fit for you. Like rye, it will germinate now and establish during the winter and spring months. As mentioned, it thins out in our hottest months and does need regular watering, but simply reseed each fall to thicken it back up. Fescue does not usually need to be mowed as often as rye.

We have found an excellent way to install fescue is to aerate the area with a core aeration machine and then broadcast the seed. This is especially effective on slopes where seed may wash.

We only recommend fescue for shaded areas where you are having trouble growing St. Augustine. The pricing is based on square footage with a minimum of $250.




Plants to Consider

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Sunshine ligustrum: If you like yellow, this is a neat little shrub. It is evergreen, takes pruning and shaping well and doesn’t seem to have many insect or disease issues. It contrasts well with dark green bushes, purple foliage plants, and purple or red flowers. Use in full or part day sun and with moderate watering.




Garden phlox: Speaking of a purple bloom that would look great behind the sunshine Ligustrum, this variety of old timey garden phlox from my yard attracts butterflies all summer. Available in many colors, phlox paniculata grows about 4-5 ft tall and does best in part sun. A dependable perennial, cut to ground in winter.




Cassia alata, or Candlestick tree, has been around forever but is rarely seen around here. It dies to the ground each winter but often returns from the root, or can be planted from seed or a 1 gallon pot if you can find it in a nursery. Mine grow to about 9 ft tall every summer.




Black Diamond crape myrtle: An interesting newer series of crapes with striking foliage. Available in many colors. Plant in full sun, will reach about 12 ft.

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-Prime Landscape Services-
Voted Reader’s Choice Best Landscape Company in Mansfield August 2017
Thanks, Mansfield!

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September Chores

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• Mow weekly and do not bag clippings

• Treat fire ants

• Overseed rye grass

• Apply weed pre-emergent and fall fertilizer

• Sow wildflower seeds for spring

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Our goal is to fulfill the needs of the customer by providing timely, quality services and products.
Thanks for your business!

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Greg Hamann
Owner

Prime's Clippings August 2017

 Prickly Poppy, Argemone Albiflora

an August wildflower and excellent forage plant for quail and bees

Dog Days of Summer

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After a fairly pleasant June, July came on hot and dry as expected. Rains have been widely scattered so consider yourself lucky if you had any in your part of the world. As I write this on the last day of July we are expecting a very nice start to August with increased rain chances and high temperatures in the low nineties—sweet!  But for the next two months plants and lawns can go south in a hurry. Keep an eye on tender plants like hydrangeas or newly planted trees and shrubs, and check your sprinklers regularly for clogged nozzles, low heads, heads blocked by shrubs, etc. It only takes a week or so to do serious damage to lawns and landscapes that are not receiving enough water, so stay alert!

So why do we refer to the sultriest days of summer as the “dog days?" Is it because the heat makes dogs short-tempered and mean, or lazy and lethargic? Because we eat a lot of hot dogs?

The original meaning actually had nothing to do with heat or dogs, but hot weather is what we in the northern hemisphere now associate with the phrase. The ancient Greeks marked this time of the year by the rising of Sirius the dog star just before dawn, and associated it with a potential for war or disaster. It also happened to coincide with a really hot time of year, but depending on where you are in the world Sirius will rise at different times. And because the stars in our night sky move independently of Earth’s calendar, in about 13,000 years we will be experiencing the dog days of winter. And I bet the dogs will still be lethargic and lazy, laying about by a warm fire.

Time to Treat for Grubworms!

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Don’t forget! August is the time of year to treat for grub worms. Most of our grub damage is brought on by the larva of the June beetle. Peak flights of the June beetle occur in mid May to mid June and eggs hatch about 1 month later. Grubs are easiest to kill at this early stage of their growth due to the fact that they are closer to the soil surface and very small. Not every yard will have a large enough population to cause damage, but if you have had one in the past you may be in a location that is prone to infestation. Lawns close to street lights where June bugs gather are often hit, and ironically they often attack lush lawns when soil is soft and food (roots) is abundant. They can do serious damage to turf over the next two months. And the application we make for grubs may also act as a preventative for chinch bugs, another bad lawn pest.

Prices start at just $49.95 for customers that are already on our 7 step program!

This many grubs in 1 sq ft of soil is enough to do serious damage.

Summer Surprises

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While enjoying a late afternoon walk a few years ago we were fortunate enough to be caught in a heavy downpour. Like a couple of kids, we came home soaking wet, chilled, and thrilled to have a good rain in mid summer. Then, just a few days later, we discovered a vast swath of beautiful white flowers held on single stems 8 inches tall, growing in an old mowed field that was once the site of the Pike Drive-In Theater in the fifties. Having driven past this corner my entire life, funny how I never really noticed them until I took the time to actually walk through the field. Sometimes you just have to slow down to find the treasure that was there all along.


These summer jewels are rain lilies. Even though these flowers are called lilies, they actually belong to the Amaryllis family. Rain lily is a generic term that applies to numerous species of plants in three different genus: Zephyranthes, Habranthus, and Cooperia. We dug several clumps to set in our beds and after a few days they went to seed. A second rain brought another flush of flowers a week later. These resilient little bulbs will flush after nearly every summer rain and last virtually forever. Our new wild additions joined some pink ones we purchased at a nursery years ago.

Another plant that will help ease the dog days of summer is the Surprise Lily, Lycoris radiata or Lycoris sqaumigera.

Around the end of August, when you have just about given up on keeping your plants pretty, up jumps a little shoot of fresh green growth. In just about a week it is 2-3 ft. tall and a gorgeous spidery red or pink bloom appears.

Excellent in a mondo grass bed or all by themselves, a few clusters of this beauty will transition you pleasantly into Fall.

Planning for Fall Projects

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Every year we like to remind customers that Fall is an excellent time for landscape improvements. Everyone gets spring fever and enjoys freshening up their yard in spring, but well informed gardeners know that Fall is really the best season for planting most of our landscape ornamentals.

Trees, shrubs, and perennials that are planted in September through December get to take advantage of our traditionally mild temperatures and regular rains. Plants that go in the ground in the Fall have reduced heat stress and are better equipped to handle the inevitable dry conditions of next summer.

Although most plants will show little or no top growth during the winter, it’s what is going on in the ground that counts. Root systems thrive in our mild Fall weather and grow vigorously all winter, giving you bigger, healthier plants next year.

Use these hot days of August to make plans for your fall landscape projects.

The Big Email Push

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Experts agree, e-mail is the only way to go!

Once again, we are reminding everyone to sign up to “Go Green” and start receiveing your invoices and newsletter via e-mail. We do not share your address with anyone, and we do not send out e-mail blasts soliciting your business.

You can also pay with your favorite credit card if you prefer.

Just call us at 817-461-4000 to set it up.

Better yet, send an e-mail to: contactus@primelandscapeservices.com

Thanks!

Prime's Clippings June 2017

Centaura Americana - American Basket Flower
An early summer wildflower

Ready for Summer?

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May was a disappointment to much of the metroplex regarding our rain totals. Normally our wettest month, it seems most of the storms split north and south of Fort Worth. There have been blisteringly hot days and a few blissfully cool days as well, but it is a sure bet that hot weather will start to dominate.

We have already had to start supplemental watering in between the scattered rains, and pay close attention to newly planted flowers, shrubs, and trees  to make sure they are not allowed to dry out. Remember, those root zones remain the same size as the pot they were in for several weeks or even months. Many plants will recover from wilting but it always slows their growth.

So here is my early summer checklist:

• Weed beds and mulch everything
• Fertilize lawns and beds
• Spot spray weeds in the lawn
• Check sprinklers and adjust heads
• Hand water new plants
• Plant the last warm season vegetables—it’s a little late, but cantaloupes and a few others can still go in
• Start enjoying the tomatoes, peppers, squash and other garden goodies that are already producing (side note: wage war on squash bugs!)
• Get outdoors and enjoy the last crops of wildflowers

And when it gets too hot, head for the lake or the pool. Welcome summer!

What to watch for as we heat up...

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Surprisingly, we haven’t observed too many insect issues yet in spite of our warm winter. Mosquitoes are starting to show up but have not been a big problem. We have been monitoring for bagworms on one of our properties that has hundreds of cypress trees, and they have not shown up yet. We are nearing the time for tent caterpillars as well, so we may start seeing both of these critters pop up in June.

Fire ants of course are ever-present and make new mounds after every rain. And that’s possibly the key to why we haven’t had big problems with any of these pests — we haven’t had a lot of rain just yet.

Aphids and azalea bark scale are a constant problem on crape myrtles, and a systemic insecticide is the most effective weapon against the bark scale.

Conditions were optimal this winter for some blight and canker on Italian cypress and similar trees. There is no control, so if you have dead patches in your cypress or junipers prune it out or remove the tree. Some crapes had severe freeze damage, treatment is the same. Most fungal diseases should decrease as it gets hot, but gray leaf spot and chinch bugs are potential summer problems for St. Augustine.

gray leaf spot

chinch bugs

Prime landscapes new ride at Six Flags!

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We were honored to work on a new attraction at Six Flags again this year, helping them usher in The Joker. This is an exciting ride for the true thrill seeker. And it is exciting for us to get to work with the skilled and dedicated team at Six Flags and observe how they meet all the challenges in bringing these world-class attractions to the public.  Be sure and include a trip to Six Flags in your summer plans!

June Chores

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• Mow Weekly
• Finish planting spring flowers
• Mulch beds
• Treat for fire ants, mosquitoes, and caterpillars 

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Our goal is to fulfill the needs of the customer by providing timely, quality services and products.
Thanks for your business!

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Greg Hamann, Owner

Prime's Clippings April 2017

Looking Forward to a Great Spring

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I would say that this has not been a normal winter or start to spring time, but since this is north Texas normal weather is hard to define. The two hard freezes we had this winter burnt quite a few plants, and all the 80 and 90 degree days confused plants and insects, as well as some of us humans. I know I’m confused all too often these days.

Several of our spring plants bloomed weeks earlier than normal, including bluebonnets and Bridal wreath. Pansies have held up well this spring in most places, but patches were lost to the 3 days of teens and twenties in early January. Fortunately it’s about time to start changing out to summer color.

We have already had our first storm with damaging winds and hail, and we can expect more over the next two months. At least May is traditionally our wettest month. There is plenty of time to get new plants and sod in and have Mother Nature’s helping hand in getting them established before our hot weather arrives, but I guess that depends on how “normal” our weather is!

April is absolutely the busiest month of the year for gardening, so please be patient with us if we can’t always get right to you. We promise to do our best!

How to Water Newly Planted Shrubs and Trees

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A reminder for anyone planting new shrubs and trees.

Although sprinkler systems will supplement rains adequately on lawns and established plants, most new plants need to be thoroughly soaked once a week until they get established, and very few sprinkler systems are capable of soaking an entire root ball.

This means that if you do not receive a good soaking rain every 6-10 days, you need to get the old water hose out and hand water your new plants weekly.

The bigger the plant, the more important this is. Most plants like a well drained soil, so container grown plants are usually planted in an organic mix that drains very well. Plants are usually watered daily at the nursery and sometimes going without water for even a couple days can dry out the root ball to the point of damaging the plant. When your new plants are taken from that container and placed in soil, the same affect can be seen, although not quite as rapidly.

When a healthy plant fails within just a few weeks of installation, 90% of the time it is due to that root ball being allowed to dry out. We’ll chalk up 9% to the other culprit, over watering, and 1% to a damaged root ball.

Regarding sod, it must stay moist every day for the first few weeks until the roots establish. Give it a good soaking every few days or a light sprinkling every day.

Please help us keep your new plants looking good by watering correctly!

Almost Time for Summer Color

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The time is now to start making plans for your summer color!

The petunias we recently planted will make a for a big show through May. If you are a petunia person you will need to swap them out for hot weather plants like lantana or periwinkles in early June. But if you just have pansies or nothing at all in your beds then you can start planting summer flowers now so they can get rooted before hot weather.

There are so many choices, but low maintenance plants that are not finicky are a big factor for most of us. Few people have the time or inclination to constantly check and treat for insects or diseases, and we need plants that can outlast a long summer season with extreme temperatures. So with this demanding criteria, here are some proven winners and appropriate applications for them.

Full sun or afternoon sun areas:

Lantana is hands-down the toughest choice for high heat, and the absolute best choice for dryer beds. Some folks think lantana can get a little unruly, but there are new compact dwarf varieties that really perform and grow only to about 12 inches. Pentas are another heat lover with few problems, and for big accents use purple fountain grass, esperanza, and sun coleus. Scaevola is a great trailing plant in lavender or white, and Blackfoot daisy is a fragrant mounding/trailing plant—both great for rock walls, containers or borders.




Periwinkles love the heat but cannot be planted here until about mid-may due to pythium and rhizoctonia root rot when nights are cool or it is too wet. Dwarf zinnias can have similar issues if planted too early. Sweet potato vines are another great accent as long as you have the space for them or the time to periodically cut them back, and artemesias such as Dusty Miller or Powis Castle provide silvery foliage. Sunpatiens are a sun tolerant variety of impatiens and perform well with adequate water, but are usually quite a bit pricier.





Other choices for sun include Angelonia, Torenia, Salvia, Blue Daze, Moss Rose, and Purslane. Bronze begonias tolerate sun or shade so are great for those places that go in and out of the sun, but they struggle with uneven moisture, and with twice a week water restrictions it can be hard to keep them looking good in July-August.

Shade areas:
In the shade, caladiums and begonias are king with impatiens close behind. Impatiens need a little light to look good all summer. In heavy shade they tend to get leggy in July-August. Caladiums also need consistent water and once they start withering they take a long time to recover. You can also use foliage plants like shade coleus, Japanese painted fern, alternanthera, or lamium. We have had great luck with Dragon Wing Begonias in shade despite uneven watering. Like sunpatiens, these are normally a little more costly than some of the more common bedding plants, but grow really large and fill a lot of space..

Reminders

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E-mail
Please call or e-mail us to start getting your invoices and statements via e-mail. We will never share your contact information or blast you with solicitations. It is simply the most environmentally friendly and efficient way to do business.

Scheduling
During the spring season, we have many homeowners with different preferences for their mowing schedule. If you are not on a 12 month pro-rated contract, please let us know when you want to start weekly services. Also please give at least 24 hours notice to change a regular service.

April Chores

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• Aerate lawn
• Mow weekly
• Plant spring flowers & shrubs
• Mulch beds
• Treat fire ants
• Check/set irrigation system
• Start trimming hedges
• Weed control in beds
• Fertilize lawns and shrubs

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Our goal is to fulfill the needs of the customer by providing timely, quality services and products.
Thanks for your business!

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