Showing posts with label Mow. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mow. Show all posts

Monday, October 2, 2017

Prime's Clippings October 2017


Eryngo Leavenworthii, Leavenworth's Eryngo 
Often overlooked, but beautiful summer wildflower


Where is the Fall Y'all?


We had a pretty mild August but September stayed unseasonably hot, and the first week of October is going to stay in the nineties as well. At least we finished out September with some wide- spread rain.

As soon as we have consistent sweatshirt weather we can start changing out summer flowers to pansies for the winter. If it stays hot they tend to stretch and get aphids. If your summer color still looks good you can enjoy well into November, but it is always good to get pansies in the ground a week or two ahead of our first hard freeze so they have some roots developed.

And when will the first hard freeze occur? It can happen any time from November 20 to February. And if anyone could know that more than a few days in advance, they need to be sitting at a table in Vegas.

Along with milder weather October brings a modest list of gardening chores. Turf still needs to be mowed and leaves mulched up, flowers changed out, fire ants treated with bait products, fall pre-emergents and fertilizer applied, and tired summer perennials tidied up. But outdoor chores are always easier on a pleasant fall day.

Call or email us if you would like a catalog of winter color that will be available this year!


Pansies starting mid-October






Texas Trees for Fall Color

We all know that fall foliage in north Texas is not a big showstopper, but with the right weather conditions here are a few trees that can stand out.

Autumn Blaze Maple
one of the few maples suited for our area



Cedar Elm
a true native



Chinese Pistache
a well rounded, mid-size tree


Shumard Red Oak
a native and widely planted tree; not to be confused with northern red oaks or pin oaks, both of which will not grow in our soils




Happy Halloween!





LED Christmas Lighting - Time to Plan Now!




I know, I know, we haven’t even gotten to Halloween yet and retailers are already pushing Christmas. We are not jumping on the marketing bandwagon, but since we are only taking a limited number of new properties for Christmas lighting, we want you to have the info you need to plan your project and get on the schedule. We continue to recommend Seasonal Source LED lighting.

Why Seasonal Source LED?
  • LED is green technology, consuming about 80% less electricity than traditional. You save money every year you use them.
  • Tired of testing your strings of lights every year only to find half of them don’t work anymore? Our lights are premium grade and ruggedly constructed with a 3 year guarantee.
  • Our LED lighting provides a dazzlingly bright display with brilliant jewel-like colors that never fade, chip, or scratch. You can choose from traditional warm-white to an array of festive colors.
  • LED are safe and cool to the touch.
  • Do more with less. Let’s compare the energy savings: On roof lighting, we typically use the C9 bulb. With LED, 100 ft of roof line will use less electricity than a single 100 watt light bulb. 100 ft of traditional incandescent Christmas lights will consume more power than a 600 watt microwave! When wrapping trees or columns with mini-lights, we can plug up to 300 23 foot long strings into one outlet! Compare with only 35 strings of traditional mini lights.

It's easy to see:

You can cover more area with a huge reduction in electrical costs, or increase your display without dangerously overloading your electrical circuits.


What do we provide?

We can provide everything for your outdoor display, custom designed to fit your home, including mini lights to wrap trees and shrubs, C9 roof lights, lighted wreaths and garlands, and all the jumpers, cords, and timer needed to make it all work. After Christmas, we will come out and place the lights in stackable storage boxes with tags and a diagram so that installation the following year will be easy to duplicate.

What does it cost?

We will measure your roof, trees, shrubs, sidewalks—whatever you want to highlight and provide an estimate and design suggestions. Once you have purchased your lights and supplies from us, we have a simple labor rate to cover installation and take down.

Labor
  • Lining driveways, sidewalks, etc.: $2.00 per ft
  • Single story roof lines: $3.00 per ft
  • Second story roofs: $5.00 per ft

Materials
  • C9 roof lights start at $2.75 per ft including wire and clips
  • Storage boxes are $10.00 or you can provide your own
  • Wrapping tree trunks, shrubs, etc.: 23 ft strings of M5 or G12 mini lights run $25.00 per string. If you already have the lights it is $6.00 per string for labor only.

For estimates, contact Mike Johnson.





Another of John's Favorite "Weeds"



You may have noticed tall white “weeds” showing up along our roadsides and pastures during the last few weeks. A closer inspection reveals that they are actually a beautiful euphorbia, Agaloma marginata or Snow on the Mountain. Similar to a poinsettia, the flowers are tiny and somewhat inconspicuous but are surrounded by showy white bracts with green stripes. Natives like these are important sources of nectar for pollinators like our endangered honey bees.



October Chores


  • Mow less often as the lawn slows down

  • Water once—twice a week as needed

  • Treat fire ants—bait products work well in Fall

  • Overseed rye and fescue grass

  • Apply weed pre-emergent and fertilizer

  • Sow wildflower seeds for spring 



Our goal is to fulfill the needs of the customer by providing timely, quality services and products.
Thanks for your business!


Spencer Young
Pool and Water Garden Services

Tuesday, August 1, 2017

Prime's Clippings August 2017

 Prickly Poppy, Argemone Albiflora

an August wildflower and excellent forage plant for quail and bees

Dog Days of Summer


After a fairly pleasant June, July came on hot and dry as expected. Rains have been widely scattered so consider yourself lucky if you had any in your part of the world. As I write this on the last day of July we are expecting a very nice start to August with increased rain chances and high temperatures in the low nineties—sweet!  But for the next two months plants and lawns can go south in a hurry. Keep an eye on tender plants like hydrangeas or newly planted trees and shrubs, and check your sprinklers regularly for clogged nozzles, low heads, heads blocked by shrubs, etc. It only takes a week or so to do serious damage to lawns and landscapes that are not receiving enough water, so stay alert!

So why do we refer to the sultriest days of summer as the “dog days?" Is it because the heat makes dogs short-tempered and mean, or lazy and lethargic? Because we eat a lot of hot dogs?

The original meaning actually had nothing to do with heat or dogs, but hot weather is what we in the northern hemisphere now associate with the phrase. The ancient Greeks marked this time of the year by the rising of Sirius the dog star just before dawn, and associated it with a potential for war or disaster. It also happened to coincide with a really hot time of year, but depending on where you are in the world Sirius will rise at different times. And because the stars in our night sky move independently of Earth’s calendar, in about 13,000 years we will be experiencing the dog days of winter. And I bet the dogs will still be lethargic and lazy, laying about by a warm fire.



Time to Treat for Grubworms!


Don’t forget! August is the time of year to treat for grub worms. Most of our grub damage is brought on by the larva of the June beetle. Peak flights of the June beetle occur in mid May to mid June and eggs hatch about 1 month later. Grubs are easiest to kill at this early stage of their growth due to the fact that they are closer to the soil surface and very small. Not every yard will have a large enough population to cause damage, but if you have had one in the past you may be in a location that is prone to infestation. Lawns close to street lights where June bugs gather are often hit, and ironically they often attack lush lawns when soil is soft and food (roots) is abundant. They can do serious damage to turf over the next two months. And the application we make for grubs may also act as a preventative for chinch bugs, another bad lawn pest.

Prices start at just $49.95 for customers that are already on our 7 step program!

This many grubs in 1 sq ft of soil is enough to do serious damage.




Summer Surprises


While enjoying a late afternoon walk a few years ago we were fortunate enough to be caught in a heavy downpour. Like a couple of kids, we came home soaking wet, chilled, and thrilled to have a good rain in mid summer. Then, just a few days later, we discovered a vast swath of beautiful white flowers held on single stems 8 inches tall, growing in an old mowed field that was once the site of the Pike Drive-In Theater in the fifties. Having driven past this corner my entire life, funny how I never really noticed them until I took the time to actually walk through the field. Sometimes you just have to slow down to find the treasure that was there all along.


These summer jewels are rain lilies. Even though these flowers are called lilies, they actually belong to the Amaryllis family. Rain lily is a generic term that applies to numerous species of plants in three different genus: Zephyranthes, Habranthus, and Cooperia. We dug several clumps to set in our beds and after a few days they went to seed. A second rain brought another flush of flowers a week later. These resilient little bulbs will flush after nearly every summer rain and last virtually forever. Our new wild additions joined some pink ones we purchased at a nursery years ago.



Another plant that will help ease the dog days of summer is the Surprise Lily, Lycoris radiata or Lycoris sqaumigera.

Around the end of August, when you have just about given up on keeping your plants pretty, up jumps a little shoot of fresh green growth. In just about a week it is 2-3 ft. tall and a gorgeous spidery red or pink bloom appears.

Excellent in a mondo grass bed or all by themselves, a few clusters of this beauty will transition you pleasantly into Fall.






Planning for Fall Projects


Every year we like to remind customers that Fall is an excellent time for landscape improvements. Everyone gets spring fever and enjoys freshening up their yard in spring, but well informed gardeners know that Fall is really the best season for planting most of our landscape ornamentals.

Trees, shrubs, and perennials that are planted in September through December get to take advantage of our traditionally mild temperatures and regular rains. Plants that go in the ground in the Fall have reduced heat stress and are better equipped to handle the inevitable dry conditions of next summer.

Although most plants will show little or no top growth during the winter, it’s what is going on in the ground that counts. Root systems thrive in our mild Fall weather and grow vigorously all winter, giving you bigger, healthier plants next year.

Use these hot days of August to make plans for your fall landscape projects.



The Big Email Push


Experts agree, e-mail is the only way to go!

Once again, we are reminding everyone to sign up to “Go Green” and start receiveing your invoices and newsletter via e-mail. We do not share your address with anyone, and we do not send out e-mail blasts soliciting your business.

You can also pay with your favorite credit card if you prefer.

Just call us at 817-461-4000 to set it up.

Better yet, send an e-mail to: contactus@primelandscapeservices.com

Thanks!

Tuesday, May 2, 2017

Prime's Clippings May 2017

Oenothera Speciosa - Evening Primrose ... One of our beautiful local wildflowers!

































Keepin' it Cool


I spent April 22, Earth Day, immersed in some beautiful woods in Oklahoma, catching trout in a gorgeous river, and enjoying a nice campfire with lows In the forties. What a great way to celebrate a day that many folks don’t observe, but one that means a lot to a nature boy like me. The dogwoods and redbuds had finished their bloom, but wildflowers were abundant and the spring rains had everything lush and green. So for something a little different, I included a few photos from the woods of Tishomingo Oklahoma and some unique wildflowers in this newsletter. Enjoy!

May is historically our rainiest month and we have had some decent rains just about every week now, so hopefully we will maintain this pattern and get to enjoy a few more weeks of mild temperatures. The only drawback to cool nights is that weeds grow faster than lawns, but that should all change soon and grass will start to dominate.

Leave sprinklers off until rains disappear for a week or more, but  keep an eye on any new plants. We have been jumping into  80- 90 degree afternoons already and that can wilt newly planted flowers in just a day or so. But cool weather and frequent rains can bring on fungal problems like  brown patch in St. Augustine and leaf spot on hawthorns and photinias. Issues like these have to be addressed periodically, but again, we should be happy and take the rain over drought conditions anytime. And I’ll celebrate all the cool weather I can get before the July blast furnace comes on.

Remember our record setting rain fall in May 2015?



A Magical Mystery Quiz


Anyone that can correctly identify these pictures can have free lawn mowing for a year! Wait, Greg just saw this and said only if I want to pay for it, so I guess that’s out. Besides, I can’t stand to keep secrets, so I’ll just go ahead and clue you in after the break.




You may have guessed that it is a leaf gall, but here’s the rest of the story: This is elm sack gall, caused by the elm aphid Tetraneura ulmi. Galls are deformities on plants that can be caused by insects, disease, or fungal pathogens. What is fascinating about this one (to me anyway) is that the aphid secretes a substance which causes the elm to grow this fuzzy red bulb, which the aphid then uses as a nursery/hotel to raise it’s brood. In June they emerge and drop to the ground to colonize the roots of certain grasses. They then fly back to the tree and deposit eggs in the bark to start the cycle again in spring. So they are using the elm to make little aphid hotels and don’t even feed on it! This tree was covered with hundreds. It looked like it was covered with berries. Fascinating!



Celebrating Wildflowers


Many of our wildflowers bloomed earlier than normal again this year due to the unusually warm winter, but we had a pretty good show regardless. And it continues still! Here are a few I observed while celebrating Earth Day in Oklahoma, some you won’t see on the beaten path.


Meadow Parsnip growing along the shady edges of oak/cedar woodland, about 2 feet tall.



Tradescantia, or Spiderwort growing in low areas where moisture is abundant.
This is available in nurseries occasionally.



Blue eyed grass. This low little clumping grass is common in fields but you have to look for it. It blooms for about a month and is only 3-6 inches tall.


Now this group of pictures came two weeks ago from about 120 miles west of Fort Worth in Carbon Texas. Indian paintbrushes are most commonly seen in red-orange, but can also be white, yellow, pink, and magenta. I found a patch that had every color. Simply beautiful.



Sometimes the most beautiful gardens are those untouched by the hand of man.



May Chores


  • Mow Weekly
  • Finish planting spring flowers
  • Mulch beds
  • Treat for fire ants

Our goal is to fulfill the needs of the customer by providing timely, quality services and products.
Thanks for your business!

Wednesday, April 5, 2017

Prime's Clippings April 2017


Looking Forward to a Great Spring


I would say that this has not been a normal winter or start to spring time, but since this is north Texas normal weather is hard to define. The two hard freezes we had this winter burnt quite a few plants, and all the 80 and 90 degree days confused plants and insects, as well as some of us humans. I know I’m confused all too often these days.

Several of our spring plants bloomed weeks earlier than normal, including bluebonnets and Bridal wreath. Pansies have held up well this spring in most places, but patches were lost to the 3 days of teens and twenties in early January. Fortunately it’s about time to start changing out to summer color.

We have already had our first storm with damaging winds and hail, and we can expect more over the next two months. At least May is traditionally our wettest month. There is plenty of time to get new plants and sod in and have Mother Nature’s helping hand in getting them established before our hot weather arrives, but I guess that depends on how “normal” our weather is!

April is absolutely the busiest month of the year for gardening, so please be patient with us if we can’t always get right to you. We promise to do our best!



How to Water Newly Planted Shrubs and Trees


A reminder for anyone planting new shrubs and trees.

Although sprinkler systems will supplement rains adequately on lawns and established plants, most new plants need to be thoroughly soaked once a week until they get established, and very few sprinkler systems are capable of soaking an entire root ball.

This means that if you do not receive a good soaking rain every 6-10 days, you need to get the old water hose out and hand water your new plants weekly.

The bigger the plant, the more important this is. Most plants like a well drained soil, so container grown plants are usually planted in an organic mix that drains very well. Plants are usually watered daily at the nursery and sometimes going without water for even a couple days can dry out the root ball to the point of damaging the plant. When your new plants are taken from that container and placed in soil, the same affect can be seen, although not quite as rapidly.

When a healthy plant fails within just a few weeks of installation, 90% of the time it is due to that root ball being allowed to dry out. We’ll chalk up 9% to the other culprit, over watering, and 1% to a damaged root ball.

Regarding sod, it must stay moist every day for the first few weeks until the roots establish. Give it a good soaking every few days or a light sprinkling every day.

Please help us keep your new plants looking good by watering correctly!



Almost Time for Summer Color


The time is now to start making plans for your summer color!

The petunias we recently planted will make a for a big show through May. If you are a petunia person you will need to swap them out for hot weather plants like lantana or periwinkles in early June. But if you just have pansies or nothing at all in your beds then you can start planting summer flowers now so they can get rooted before hot weather.

There are so many choices, but low maintenance plants that are not finicky are a big factor for most of us. Few people have the time or inclination to constantly check and treat for insects or diseases, and we need plants that can outlast a long summer season with extreme temperatures. So with this demanding criteria, here are some proven winners and appropriate applications for them.

Full sun or afternoon sun areas:

Lantana is hands-down the toughest choice for high heat, and the absolute best choice for dryer beds. Some folks think lantana can get a little unruly, but there are new compact dwarf varieties that really perform and grow only to about 12 inches. Pentas are another heat lover with few problems, and for big accents use purple fountain grass, esperanza, and sun coleus. Scaevola is a great trailing plant in lavender or white, and Blackfoot daisy is a fragrant mounding/trailing plant—both great for rock walls, containers or borders.




Periwinkles love the heat but cannot be planted here until about mid-may due to pythium and rhizoctonia root rot when nights are cool or it is too wet. Dwarf zinnias can have similar issues if planted too early. Sweet potato vines are another great accent as long as you have the space for them or the time to periodically cut them back, and artemesias such as Dusty Miller or Powis Castle provide silvery foliage. Sunpatiens are a sun tolerant variety of impatiens and perform well with adequate water, but are usually quite a bit pricier.





Other choices for sun include Angelonia, Torenia, Salvia, Blue Daze, Moss Rose, and Purslane. Bronze begonias tolerate sun or shade so are great for those places that go in and out of the sun, but they struggle with uneven moisture, and with twice a week water restrictions it can be hard to keep them looking good in July-August.




Shade areas:
In the shade, caladiums and begonias are king with impatiens close behind. Impatiens need a little light to look good all summer. In heavy shade they tend to get leggy in July-August. Caladiums also need consistent water and once they start withering they take a long time to recover. You can also use foliage plants like shade coleus, Japanese painted fern, alternanthera, or lamium. We have had great luck with Dragon Wing Begonias in shade despite uneven watering. Like sunpatiens, these are normally a little more costly than some of the more common bedding plants, but grow really large and fill a lot of space..



Reminders


E-mail
Please call or e-mail us to start getting your invoices and statements via e-mail. We will never share your contact information or blast you with solicitations. It is simply the most environmentally friendly and efficient way to do business.

Scheduling
During the spring season, we have many homeowners with different preferences for their mowing schedule. If you are not on a 12 month pro-rated contract, please let us know when you want to start weekly services. Also please give at least 24 hours notice to change a regular service.


April Chores


  • Aerate lawn
  • Mow weekly
  • Plant spring flowers & shrubs
  • Mulch beds
  • Treat fire ants
  • Check/set irrigation system
  • Start trimming hedges
  • Weed control in beds
  • Fertilize lawns and shrubs



Our goal is to fulfill the needs of the customer by providing timely, quality services and products.
Thanks for your business!

Monday, March 20, 2017

Prime's Clippings March 2017


Record Warm Temperatures, Hard Freezes

Another interesting winter brought us damaging freezes coupled with record high temperatures and overall dry conditions along with a flooding rain event in January. We finally have some more normal spring-like weather in the long term forecast, but the likelihood of a March freeze still holds true for another 20 days. Let’s try to be a little patient on tomatoes and begonias!

The recent rain was sorely needed, but weeds are now exploding onto the scene. Pre-emergent applications from the fall were pretty effective this year. We are applying broadleaf control for plants like dandelion and henbit now and spot spraying for certain grassy weeds like wild rye. Remember though that most of these plants have begun flowering already and it takes at least 2 weeks and 2 applications to knock these weeds down.

Our crews are busy wrapping up the spring cut-back of roses, perennials, and grasses, and it is already time to fire up the mowers and get your lawn cut down a few notches.

So here is our annual reminder:

If you are not on a year-round contract, please let us know when you are ready for mowing. If you did not place your service on hold over winter, we will start mowing the first two weeks of March.

We don’t want you to wonder where we are, but we also don’t want to start before you’re ready.

We will be evaluating freeze damage on a case by case basis throughout March and April. Some shrubs will recover, some will not. We recommend mowing down Asian jasmine and liriope groundcovers now, especially if they were burned. Call us if you have freeze damaged shrubs to evaluate.

This is also the time for fire ant control that is guaranteed all season, and dormant oil and systemic pesticide applications for the crape myrtle scale that is devastating crapes.
Ready or not, spring is on the way!



'Tis The Season For Fireants

Fire ants may be the most annoying pest of all. They do millions of dollars in damage each year to electrical equipment and agriculture, and swarm out when disturbed to inflict painful bites on children, pets, and any unsuspecting gardener. Fire ants can migrate miles when swarming and tunnel up to 20 feet deep! Permanent eradication is not possible.

We offer two fire ant programs. One is the Texas Two Step program recommended by Texas A&M. We broadcast a bait product throughout your property and use a contact insecticide on visible mounds. This will need to be done 3-4 times a year. Baits offer the lowest environmental impact and least cost, but are slower acting and we cannot guarantee control.

We also offer a season-long product that we apply over the entire property. It will eliminate existing colonies and create a barrier to prevent new swarms from moving in. When done in March—April we guarantee control for 8 months!

Prices start at just $20 each for the Texas Two Step treatments when done with your regular lawn applications and $155 one time for the guaranteed annual service.






= OUCH!








Pond Clean-Outs Are Starting


String algae is the bane of pond owners. As much as we love our beautiful water features, we equally despise string algae. 

Since aquatic plants have not come out of dormancy and cool water temperatures reduce the bacteria colonies in your filters and gravel, conditions are optimal for the growth of string algae. 

Algae is a natural, healthy organism in any natural water feature, but it can bloom suddenly in a matter of days and become unsightly. 

We start our annual clean outs this month, changing the water, washing down the gravel and removing the sludge, cleaning the filters, trimming and thinning out water plants, and changing the water to get your pond started on the right foot for spring. 

Give Spencer a call to book your spot for your spring clean out!




Thank You For Your Business

Spring is upon us in full force. 

We want to thank all our clients who started on their spring projects with us a month or two ago when we had a little more free time, and we appreciate the patience of all of you who are now calling in for landscape projects and having to wait a few days for your estimates. 

We will do our best to get to whatever you need as quickly as we can. We look forward to working with you this coming season. 

And remember, email is a great way to communicate with us: contactus@primelandscapeservices.com




March Chores:

· Mow 1-2 notches lower
· Mulch beds
· Make last major pruning changes to overgrown shrubs
· Prune low limbs on trees
· Prune dormant perennials and fountain grasses
· Plant and transplant trees and shrubs
· Apply pre-emergent and broadleaf herbicides
· Change water and clean water gardens and koi ponds






Wednesday, October 5, 2016

Prime's Clippings October 2016

Fall Weather is Finally Showing Up!

With the big rains and cold front that came through the last week of September it looks like we may finally start having more fall-like weather. We actually dipped into the fifties for a couple nights and the first week of October should stay in the eighties for the highs. Nice!

As soon as we have consistent sweatshirt weather we can start changing out summer flowers to pansies for the winter. If it stays hot they tend to stretch and get aphids. If your summer color still looks good you can enjoy well into November, but it is always good to get pansies in the ground a week or two ahead of our first hard freeze so they have some roots developed.

And when will the first hard freeze occur? It can happen any time from November 20 to February. And if anyone could know that more than a few days in advance, they need to be sitting at a table in Vegas.

Along with milder weather October brings a modest list of gardening chores. Turf still needs to be mowed and leaves mulched up, flowers changed out, fire ants treated with bait products, fall pre-emergents and fertilizer applied, and tired summer perennials tidied up. But outdoor chores are always easier on a pleasant fall day.



Perennials and Shrubs that Shine in Fall






Several flowering plants will put on a last big show for the season. Some of our most notables are the cool lavender blooms of Mexican Bush Sage and Blue Fall Aster. 





The bright yellow of Mexican Mint Marigold is a great companion. There are 3 cultivars of Texas sage that all put on a big purple bloom after rains. A nice plant year-round, but blooms well in fall too.







Salvia greggi are blooming in pinks, reds and many other shades, great forage for migrating humming birds and butterflies.










Mexican Bird of Paradise, Caesalpinia gilliessi, is a small tree native to west Texas and can be winter tender here, but the unique blooms make it worth a try in well drained soils.

 


Great North Texas Trees for Fall Color


North Texas will never be mistaken for New England in the fall, but when our conditions are just right we do have several trees that can deliver a nice show of fall foliage. Chlorophyll is the chemical in leaves responsible for photosynthesis and it also give the leaves their green color. Leaves naturally contain other orange and yellow pigments but green dominates during the summer. As daylight shortens and temperatures decrease, photosynthesis slows, the chlorophyll breaks down, and the orange and yellow colors start to dominate. At the same time, other chemical reactions may produce red anthocyanins. All of the colors mix with the chlorophyll residue to form a variety of colors including plain old brown.

Temperature, light, and water supply have an influence on the degree and the duration of fall color. Low temperatures above freezing will favor anthocyanin formation, producing bright reds in maples and red oaks. However, an early frost can weaken the brilliant red color. Rainy and/or overcast days tend to increase the intensity of fall colors.

So although weather is our biggest factor in a fall show, here’s the short list of dependable trees endemic or well suited to our area that have the best potential for color. 

Autumn Blaze maple is one of only a few maples suited for our area. Do not plant silver maples! Although silvers are truly fast growers, they are prone to sunscald, borers, weak wood/storm damage, and relatively short lives.


Other good maples are Shantung and Fire Dragon. Fire Dragon is a cultivar of the shantung. It was developed by a local nurseryman, Keith Johannson and is a Texas A&M Superstar. Shantung is yellow and Fire Dragon is red.







Cedar elm is our native elm and can develop very showy yellow fall foliage. It is a sturdy tree with few problems. If you are into natural gardening, it’s tiny leaves are great for mulching beds.









Gingko biloba is a prehistoric tree that you won’t find on every street corner, but it is a unique tree that turns a beautiful bright yellow in fall. Make sure you purchase a male plant, and normally that is all you will find in nurseries. The females produce copious amounts of messy fruit. Gingkos tend to have a narrow upright growth habit, but many cultivars with a variety of characteristics have been developed.








Chinese pistache grows well here and is a medium sized tree that is well suited to our smaller urban yards. It can become brilliant yellow-orange in the right conditions. Pistache trees have a nice rounded canopy.








Another tree for beautiful yellow-orange hues is our common crape myrtle. Some varieties develop more color than others, and some may turn maroon or red. When selecting a crape myrtle, you should look at a variety of factors—size, shape, bloom, fall color, and mildew/disease resistance.









Last but not least is our native Shumard red oak. There are occasionally unscrupulous nurseries or growers that sell pin oaks or northern red oaks here, both of which are incompatible with our alkaline soils and water. The shumard tends to hold it’s leaves until around January, making for a late season clean up, but it is a tree that will still be here for your great grand children.







October Chores


  • Mow less often as the lawn slows down
  • Water once—twice a week as needed
  • Treat fire ants—bait products work well in Fall
  • Overseed rye and fescue grass
  • Apply weed pre-emergent and fertilizer
  • Sow wildflower seeds for spring

Wednesday, August 3, 2016

Prime's Clippings August 2016


August - A Tough Month

When the big faucets in the sky turn off things get hot and dry in a hurry. Luckily the lakes are full and many cities have eased water restrictions, but the next 30 days will likely be the hardest part of our season. Barring hurricane spawned rain events, August is traditionally our hottest, driest month.
So, repeat after me, the Texas gardener’s mantra: Mulch is good, I love my water hose.  In a perfect world we would just skip August in north Texas, but that ain’t happening.
We had a few isolated spots of rain  in July, but keep an eye on tender plants like hydrangeas or newly planted trees and shrubs, and check your sprinklers regularly for clogged nozzles, worn out rotors, low heads, heads blocked by shrubs, etc. It only takes a week or so to do serious damage to lawns and landscapes that are not receiving enough water, so stay alert!

  

Time to Treat for Grub Worms

Don’t forget! August is the time of year to treat for grub worms. Most of our grub damage is brought on by the larva of the June beetle.  Peak flights of the June beetle occur in mid-May to mid-June and eggs hatch about 1 month later. Grubs are easiest to kill at this early stage of their growth due to the fact that they are closer to the soil surface. Not every yard will have a large enough population to cause damage, but if you have had one in the past you may be in a location that is prone to infestation. Lawns close to street lights where June bugs gather are often hit, and ironically they often attack well watered, lush lawns when soil is soft and food (roots) are abundant. They will do serious damage to turf over the next two months, so treat now to avoid losing your lawn.
Prices start at just $24.95 for customers that are already on our 7 step program! 
(up to 5000 sq. ft., prices based on sq. footage of turf, call for a quote)


Planning for Fall Projects

Every year we like to remind customers that Fall is an excellent time for landscape improvements. Everyone gets spring fever and enjoys freshening up their yard in spring, but well informed gardeners know that Fall is really the best season for planting most of our landscape ornamentals.
Trees, shrubs, and perennials that are planted in September through December get to take advantage of our traditionally mild temperatures and regular rains. Plants that go in the ground in the Fall have reduced heat stress now and are better equipped to handle the inevitable dry conditions of next summer. Although most plants will show little or no top growth during the winter, it’s what is going on in the ground that counts. Root systems thrive in our mild Fall weather and grow vigorously all winter, giving you bigger, healthier plants next year.
Use these hot days of August to make plans for your fall landscape projects.


How Sprinkler Heads Get Hit by Mowers

“Your guys hit my sprinkler head with the mower!” 

Believe me, neither one of us wants to hear that.
Our crews mow over 300 acres of lawn each week, passing over thousands of sprinkler heads without a problem. And there is the key- sprinklers are designed and installed as underground systems. A properly installed head should be at or just above grade, and a properly functioning head will retract back into the ground after it waters. In both cases, a lawn mower cannot damage a head that is working properly.
Over time, several factors affect sprinkler head performance and may render the head subject to accidental breakage. The seal around the riser hardens with time and springs wear out preventing retraction.
Soils settle and move, sometimes leaving the head sitting too high. Heads also sink or have dirt build up around them, leaving the head below grade. This is very common and allows dirt to seep into the head around the seal. This grit causes the nozzle to stick in the up position or not retract fully, leaving the nozzle just high enough to be clipped by a mower, but not high enough to be seen.
All of these issues are just routine maintenance and service work that must be performed when the problem occurs, and are not the fault of the equipment operator. Very rarely can you see the head in the tall grass before you hit it with a mower or edger. We will always charge a discounted rate to repair a head that is hit by one of our mowing crews, but please remember that it is not the fault of the mowing service when a sprinkler head is struck.
Tree roots may develop under  a head and as they grow they may push the head up, and eventually it will be high enough to snag a mower deck.
Heads along the sidewalk, curb, or driveway are supposed to be 2-4 inches away from the concrete. Over time they may shift or settle at an angle and touch the concrete leaving no room for the lawn edger blade to pass by.