Prime's Clippings January 2019

Daffodils- Coming Soon!

Happy New Year! As we put a tumultuous 2018 in our rear-view mirrors, here’s hoping the New Year will bring a fresh start and renewed optimism for a great year.  We appreciate each and every one of our clients and the opportunities you gave us in 2018 and look forward to another great year serving you. The hard freeze we got on the morning of Jan. 1st can be a good thing for reducing bug populations, but overall we have had abnormal rainfall and mild temperatures. Unfortunately this sets us up for a bad winter weed situation with big patches of henbit and winter weeds already growing rampantly along the roadsides (and in our flower beds!) The agenda for January will be finishing leaf clean ups, weeding beds, and starting broadleaf weed applications. Fire ants have been more noticeable too because the saturated soils make them mound at the surface. That will be another spring challenge to look forward to. The bright side? You don’t have to water pansies when we get weekly rains, the wildflower show this spring should be a good one, and area lakes are full. Already lots of things to look forward to in 2019!   Winter Chores Leaves: Most of our leaves are down and we should finish the last of our leaf clean ups in early January. Some trees like Shumard oak are still holding their leaves but should finish dropping any day now. Live oaks drop in Feb - March, giving us another round of leaf clean-ups in late winter. If we haven’t gotten to yours and at any time this winter you need a clean up please call to let us know. Remember too that we clean gutters! Let us know if we can help you with that! Weeds: Our first round of Spring pre-emergent weed control will start in January-February. This application and the next one in March also contain a broadleaf weed killer for any dandelions, henbit, or chickweed that have come up over the last few months. Even when they are caught early it still takes two applications to kill them. Please note that grassy winter weeds like wild rye and rescue grass are very difficult to control. They require spot treatments with specialty herbicides which take several weeks to work. Pruning: Most perennials are dormant now and need to be cut back. Ornamental fountain grasses like Maiden and Muhly grasses look nice for awhile after dormancy but will start to shed and get messy. We will start cutting those back in January as well. Roses should be cut back in February. Winter is also the time to make drastic cuts if you are trying to reduce the size of overgrown shrubs. Some specifics on pruning: Many perennials die back almost to the ground and should be cut very low. You can usually tell—rudbeckias, salvia leucantha, etc. Woody perennials like the popular salvia greggi benefit from a hard pruning of a third or more. Hydrangeas are deciduous, not perennials. Those stems may look brown but do not prune them unless you just want to make them smaller. Doing so will remove next year’s flowers. Groundcovers: Our liriope and Asian jasmine groundcovers should be cut back before they start to put out new growth in spring. With our unpredictable winters it is hard to pick the best time. We normally wait until the end of January to avoid exposing them to temperatures in the teens. Transplanting: January and February are good months for transplanting shrubs and dividing most perennials. However, it is not always practical to transplant large shrubs or trees for several reasons: There are often sprinkler pipes or other plants in close proximity, making it difficult to excavate an appropriate root ball. There is always a higher mortality with transplants than with container plants, and the labor for transplanting may equal or exceed the cost to install a new plant. So in most cases, transplanting trees or shrubs is only practical as a do it yourself chore. Tree Trimming: Limb structure is easiest to see when trees are dormant, so winter is a good time to clean up your trees. Remember in Arlington that tree limbs by city code must be kept 14 ft above the street. This is a good idea regardless of where you live, so your limbs are not damaged by delivery trucks and they do not impede emergency vehicles like fire trucks. The rains this fall will add a lot of growth come spring so plan on having to remove some low limbs this year. Planting: Fall and winter are great seasons for planting new shrubs and trees to avoid moisture stress and get the root systems established before summer! Exceptions would be palms or tender zone 8 plants. Planning: And if you are a spring gardener, start lining up your improvement plans now! We routinely book out for several weeks starting in March. And if you are a fellow veggie gardener, winter is when we peruse seed catalogs for inspiration and new varieties to try. In fact, it is time to plant onions now and only a month away from planting cabbage and broccoli seedlings!   Drainage Solutions The past few months have brought numerous flooding events throughout Texas. Many homes and properties that have less than optimal slope can benefit from drainage modifications. The first goal is to create a slope that carries water away from structures or problem areas on the surface. It may involve regrading, retaining walls, or swales. Next is to capture concentrated water from roofs or concrete areas and redirect it, usually using drain pipes. You may also need catch basins connected to pipes in strategic areas to capture more surface water, and lastly a French drain system of perforated pipe in gravel can be used to dry out low areas that tend to stay wet. And if your problem area is lower than the surrounding areas, a sump pump system may be incorporated to move the water. Each situation is unique and may require one or more of these solutions. If you are dealing with drainage problems, give us a call for a free evaluation and estimate.   A Word About Crape Myrtle Pruning Crape myrtles are traditionally pruned in January-February. The horticulturally correct method is to treat a standard tree-form crape like any other tree. Prune entire branches to allow more sunlight into the canopy and reduce overcrowding, remove low branches that are in the way, remove water sprouts and suckers, and strip the seed pods if their appearance bothers you or cut tips of limbs no larger than a pencil. However, many properties and some homeowners want their crapes kept within a certain size range and this limit requires “topping” or more drastic cutting of the crowns. Since we have to administer both techniques, be sure to let us know if you have a preference.

January Chores Finish leaf clean-ups Mulch beds Trim crape myrtles Make major pruning changes to overgrown shrubs Prune low limbs on trees Prune dormant perennials and fountain grasses Plant and transplant trees and shrubs Apply pre-emergent and broadleaf herbicides Change water and clean water gardens and koi ponds Our goal is to fulfill the needs of the customer by providing timely, quality services and products. Thanks for your business!

Prime's Clippings March 2017

Record Warm Temperatures, Hard Freezes

Another interesting winter brought us damaging freezes coupled with record high temperatures and overall dry conditions along with a flooding rain event in January. We finally have some more normal spring-like weather in the long term forecast, but the likelihood of a March freeze still holds true for another 20 days. Let’s try to be a little patient on tomatoes and begonias!

The recent rain was sorely needed, but weeds are now exploding onto the scene. Pre-emergent applications from the fall were pretty effective this year. We are applying broadleaf control for plants like dandelion and henbit now and spot spraying for certain grassy weeds like wild rye. Remember though that most of these plants have begun flowering already and it takes at least 2 weeks and 2 applications to knock these weeds down.

Our crews are busy wrapping up the spring cut-back of roses, perennials, and grasses, and it is already time to fire up the mowers and get your lawn cut down a few notches.

So here is our annual reminder:

If you are not on a year-round contract, please let us know when you are ready for mowing. If you did not place your service on hold over winter, we will start mowing the first two weeks of March.

We don’t want you to wonder where we are, but we also don’t want to start before you’re ready.

We will be evaluating freeze damage on a case by case basis throughout March and April. Some shrubs will recover, some will not. We recommend mowing down Asian jasmine and liriope groundcovers now, especially if they were burned. Call us if you have freeze damaged shrubs to evaluate.

This is also the time for fire ant control that is guaranteed all season, and dormant oil and systemic pesticide applications for the crape myrtle scale that is devastating crapes.

Ready or not, spring is on the way!

'Tis The Season For Fireants

Fire ants may be the most annoying pest of all. They do millions of dollars in damage each year to electrical equipment and agriculture, and swarm out when disturbed to inflict painful bites on children, pets, and any unsuspecting gardener. Fire ants can migrate miles when swarming and tunnel up to 20 feet deep! Permanent eradication is not possible.

We offer two fire ant programs. One is the Texas Two Step program recommended by Texas A&M. We broadcast a bait product throughout your property and use a contact insecticide on visible mounds. This will need to be done 3-4 times a year. Baits offer the lowest environmental impact and least cost, but are slower acting and we cannot guarantee control.

We also offer a season-long product that we apply over the entire property. It will eliminate existing colonies and create a barrier to prevent new swarms from moving in. When done in March—April we guarantee control for 8 months!

Prices start at just $20 each for the Texas Two Step treatments when done with your regular lawn applications and $155 one time for the guaranteed annual service.

= OUCH!

Pond Clean-Outs Are Starting

String algae is the bane of pond owners. As much as we love our beautiful water features, we equally despise string algae. 

Since aquatic plants have not come out of dormancy and cool water temperatures reduce the bacteria colonies in your filters and gravel, conditions are optimal for the growth of string algae. 

Algae is a natural, healthy organism in any natural water feature, but it can bloom suddenly in a matter of days and become unsightly. 

We start our annual clean outs this month, changing the water, washing down the gravel and removing the sludge, cleaning the filters, trimming and thinning out water plants, and changing the water to get your pond started on the right foot for spring. 

Give Spencer a call to book your spot for your spring clean out!

Thank You For Your Business

Spring is upon us in full force. 

We want to thank all our clients who started on their spring projects with us a month or two ago when we had a little more free time, and we appreciate the patience of all of you who are now calling in for landscape projects and having to wait a few days for your estimates. 

We will do our best to get to whatever you need as quickly as we can. We look forward to working with you this coming season. 

And remember, email is a great way to communicate with us: contactus@primelandscapeservices.com

March Chores:

· Mow 1-2 notches lower

· Mulch beds

· Make last major pruning changes to overgrown shrubs

· Prune low limbs on trees

· Prune dormant perennials and fountain grasses

· Plant and transplant trees and shrubs

· Apply pre-emergent and broadleaf herbicides

· Change water and clean water gardens and koi ponds

Prime's Clippings January 2017

H a p p y   N e w   Y e a r !

Welcome 2017!

Daffodils- Coming soon to a yard near you!

We hope everyone enjoyed the end of year festivities and the pleasant Christmas weather. We have already had a harder freeze than we did in all of last winter so it will be interesting to see what else transpires over the next three months.

We are always excited about the possibilities a new year brings. We are expanding our facilities, working on our operations, and actively seeking well qualified employees so that we can provide you with even better services in 2017. We value your feedback, so please help us to serve you better by letting us know what you need. Emailing contactus@primelandscapeservices.com is a great way to reach us or let us know what you think we could do to improve our services.

As we reflect on last year’s successes and shortcomings, we wish you a great and happy new year!

Our Annual Mulch Special is Here

Mulching your beds is absolutely the best thing you can do for the health of your soil and plants.

Remember: mulch reduces weeds, improves soil structure, conserves moisture, protects plants from extreme cold and summer heat, and gives your beds a neat appearance.

How much do you need? We recommend adding 2” to existing mulch or 3” to unmulched areas. A 2 cu. ft. bag will cover about 10 sq. ft. 2” deep or 7 sq. ft. 3” deep

Take advantage now! 

Mention our newsletter for 20% off normal prices.

DISCOUNTED PRICE:

Hardwood: $5.00 per 2 cu ft bag

Dark brown, enriches soil as it decomposes

Cedar: $5.85 per 2 cu ft bag

Great cedar smell, lighter color, lasts longer

Red or Black Mulch: $5.60 per 2 cu ft bag

For a decorative look

Prices include delivery and installation; extra charges may apply for weeding or leaf clean ups if needed.

What to do in Winter

Remember that we do clean gutters!

Leaves: Most of our leaves are down and we should finish the last of our leaf clean ups in early January. Some trees like Shumard oak are still holding their leaves but should finish dropping any day now. Live oaks drop in Feb - March, giving us another round of  leaf clean-ups in late winter. If we haven’t gotten to yours and at any time this winter you need a clean up please call to let us know.

Weeds: Our first round of Spring pre-emergent weed control will start in January-February. This application and the next one in March also contain a broadleaf weed killer for any dandelions, henbit, or chickweed that may have come up over the last few months. Even when they are caught early it still takes two applications to kill them. With a wet winter so far and more rain predicted it may be a banner year for weeds. Please note that grassy winter weeds like wild rye and rescue grass are very difficult to control. They require spot treatments with specialty herbicides which take several weeks to work.

Pruning: Most perennials are dormant now and need to be cut back. Ornamental fountain grasses like Maiden and Muhly grasses look nice for awhile after dormancy but will start to shed and get messy. We will start cutting those back in January as well. Roses should be cut back in February. Winter is also the time to make drastic cuts if you are trying to reduce the size of overgrown shrubs.                                          

Groundcovers: Our liriope and Asian jasmine groundcovers should be cut back before they start to put out new growth in spring, and with our unpredictable winters it is hard to pick the best time. We normally wait until the end of January to avoid exposing them to temperatures in the teens.

Transplanting: January is a good month for transplanting shrubs and dividing most perennials. However, it is not always practical to transplant large shrubs or trees for several reasons: There are often sprinkler pipes or other plants in close proximity, making it difficult to excavate an appropriate root ball. The labor for transplanting may equal or exceed the cost to install a new plant. And there is always a higher mortality with transplants than with container plants. 

Tree Trimming: Limb structure is easiest to see when trees are dormant, so winter is a good time to clean up your trees. Remember in Arlington that tree limbs by city code must be kept 14 ft above the street. This is a good idea regardless of where you live, so your limbs are not damaged by delivery trucks and they do not impede emergency vehicles like fire trucks.

Planting: Our constant reminder! Fall and winter are our best seasons for planting new shrubs and trees to avoid moisture stress and get the root systems established before summer!

Planning: And if you are a spring gardener, start lining up your improvement plans now! We routinely book out for several weeks starting in March.

Got Ice? We Can Help.

Don’t let a winter storm shut your business down or create a hazardous situation for people trying to access your home or business!

We aid several of our commercial properties with snow and ice removal, salting, and sanding. We are ready again should the need arise, and can even help homeowners with ice melt for steep driveways and sidewalks.

Please call us ahead of time and let us know if you would like de-icing or snow removal services for your home or business before the next big storm.

A Word About Crape Myrtle Trimming

Crape myrtles are traditionally pruned in January. The horticulturally correct method is to treat a standard tree-form crape like any other tree. Prune entire branches to allow more sunlight into the canopy and reduce overcrowding, remove low branches that are in the way, remove water sprouts and suckers, and strip the seed pods if their appearance bothers you or cut tips of limbs no larger than a pencil. 

However, many properties and some homeowners want their crapes kept within a certain size range and this limit requires “topping” or more drastic cutting of the crowns. Since we have to administer both techniques, be sure to let us know if you have a preference.

Prime's Clippings November 2016

Time To Order Bulbs!  

If you want a beautiful spring show of annual tulips, daffodils, paper whites or jonquils, now is the time to order them! Tulips are $90 per 100 bulbs installed, and daffodils are $1.50 each with a minimum of 100 bulbs. We will be picking up our bulb orders this month and start planting after Thanksgiving. Call to place your order today!

Not sure what to plant? Email john@primelandscapeservices.com

Winter Can Wait

I know, I know, it’s November, but- this is Texas! Our fall weather is just getting started! It’s possible we might get our first freeze around Thanksgiving, but in general we can expect more mild weather for the next 2 months.

We haven’t seen a lot of rain this October, but there’s been a few good soaks. In spite of the cooler temperatures overall, it’s remained pretty warm during the day these last couple weeks with temps in the mid-high 80s, but hopefully that is about to change.

This is a great time to get plants in the ground and give their roots a chance to develop through the winter, but keep them well watered until we get more regular rain fall. We have pansies going in all month long, so please call or e-mail us at contactus@primelandscapeservices.com if you’d like to schedule your fall color.

It’s pretty splendid weather for doing outdoor chores, but if you aren’t big on chores, remember that’s what we’re here for! So dig this fall weather and leave the real diggin’ to us.

Pansies and Violas are going in now! 

Call to schedule! 

Residential Mowing Clients - Please Read This!

With lawns growing slowly now and leaves starting to fall, please call us if you’d like to make changes to your mowing schedule!

If you do not want your yard mowed, let us know. We maintain several hundred properties, and they all have different needs. Some folks don’t mind letting leaves gather for a few weeks before cleaning them up and some folks prefer to have their sidewalks blown and leaves mulched up every week.Therefore, we do not let our crews decide which yards can be skipped on their list — all their work orders must come through our office.

Crews are paid for every minute of the day, and gas is expensive.

If you do not call in to cancel by 5:00 PM the day before and our crew comes to your house on your regularly scheduled day, you will be charged—no exceptions. 

AND IF YOU HAVE TREES, PLEASE READ THIS!

Every year we like to remind our clients about how we handle leaf clean ups. Leaves are starting to fall, and mulch mowing them into the lawn is the most cost effective way of dealing with them as long as it is done regularly. Soon there will be some really heavy leaf drops and we may need to spend extra time to clean them up if you have a lot of trees. We appreciate your business, and we will always try to work as quickly as we can to keep the cost reasonable, but please note:

WHEN A CREW HAS TO SPEND MORE TIME THAN THEY WOULD FOR A REGULAR LAWN MOWING, WE WILL BILL YOU HOURLY FOR THE CLEAN UP SERVICE.OUR HOURLY RATE IS $38.00 PER MAN HOUR.

(Not applicable to properties that are on pro-rated 12 month contracts that include leaf removal) 

Daylight Savings Reminders

Don't Forget Your Sprinklers!

We haven't seen a ton of rain coming into November, but the cooler temperatures mean we still don't need to run those sprinklers quite as much as we did a month or two ago. Make sure your new shrubs, trees, rye grass, and pansies are getting watered in adequately, however, be careful not to let your soil become too saturated as roots will actually suffer until they dry out a little.

We've seen quite a few yards this month where sprinklers weren't cut back and soil conditions were perfect for lawn diseases like brown patch. If you notice brown circular areas in your lawn call us for a treatment. If wet conditions persist this fungus will spread and cause serious damage to your turf. 

You may also see signs of Take All Patch in St Augustine. There is no full cure for this devastating disease, but a fungicide treatment and applications of peat moss and sulfur to increase acidity are the recommended controls.

Remember to adjust the clock on your sprinklers and replace the batteries in your smoke detectors and sprinkler controller on the weekend that we roll our clocks back for daylight savings time. It's an easy way to remember this simple chore. Note, not all sprinkler controllers have a replaceable battery. If you aren’t sure whether or not yours does, call us for the answer.

Another smart thing to do this time of year is test your rain/freeze sensor. Verify after one of these rains that your red light is on and the controller is inactive. As soon as the temperature drops below 40 the light should also come on to keep the clock from running and creating an ice hazard for cars or pedestrians.

This is especially important for commercial properties due to the high liability they may incur, and rain/freeze sensors are required by law for all sprinkler systems. So if yours is not working properly or if your system is so old that it doesn’t have one call us to schedule a service call.

Fall Water Garden Services

Leaves are dropping regularly and are probably the biggest challenge in maintaining a naturalistic water feature.

It is important to empty the skimmers and keep the leaves scooped out regularly. Clogged skimmers cause a myriad of problems, cutting off flow to the pump, and causing fill valves to run excessively since the water level drops in the skimmer.

Since water plants are starting to go dormant, one solution for shaded ponds is to cover the pond with a leaf net using tubing to suspend the net off the water. We can custom fit a leaf net system to virtually any pond. 

Email spencer@primelandscapeservices.com for more details.

November Chores:

• Mulch mow leaves as they fall
• Treat fire ants with baits
• Mow over-seeded rye lawns weekly
• Apply granular sulfur to buffer our alkaline soils
• Change batteries in smoke detectors and your sprinkler controller when you change your clocks to daylight savings
• Don’t forget to feed the birds!

 

Prime's Clippings September 2016

Fall is on the Horizon

August gets a B this year, with our hot streak taking a rain break around the middle of the month and evenings dipping into the seventies. As the heat begins easing we can get back to enjoying our yards and start our fall gardening projects.

I get as excited about this time of year as I do spring, and it always seems to fly by just as quickly. Get those fall veggies planted, prune out the sun burnt stuff, and get the fall pre-emergent and fertilizers put out. Plant trees, shrubs, groundcovers, and new lawns, but we have to control ourselves and hold off on pansies until no earlier than mid October.

You should have plenty to do as the days get shorter, and soon enough you’ll be able to enjoy a cool evening around your outdoor fire pit.

Wait, you don’t have one of those yet? Hmmm, maybe you better give us a call!

Fall Pre-Emergent and Fertilizer- The Most Important Application

If you are a regular reader you already know this drill, but we have to repeat it for newbies. 

This is an important message!

If you are on our regular lawn application program you will be receiving an application of pre-emergent weed control in September-October. If you are not on our full service program, call today to schedule. This is the most important lawn application of the year! Winter weeds begin germinating in September and October depending on weather conditions and may not be noticeable until spring. But for the best chance of reducing those unsightly weeds you see in March, you must treat the seeds now!

Dandelions, thistles, henbit, chickweed, oxalis, rescue grass, and poa annua are the biggest culprits in our spring gallery of weed problems, and most of these start sprouting when soil temperatures at the surface drop below 70 degrees. It doesn’t take too many days of cool cloudy weather to achieve this, so timing is critical. 

Pre-emergents do not provide 100% control, but they will make a big difference. They work by creating a chemical barrier in the soil that kills the seedling as it starts to emerge. This application may be combined with a broadleaf weed killer to control any that have already sprouted. Heavy rains or wet winters dilute the chemical barrier sometimes reducing effectiveness.

Our fall application also includes fertilizers to get your lawn ready for dormancy. Nitrogen helps thicken the lawn and smother weeds, and potassium builds stronger root systems to help your lawn through hard freezes and promote early green-up in spring.

A Couple Observations

We have recently noticed some early leaf drop, particularly on American elms. A close look reveals fungal leaf spot covering the foliage, likely due to the recent rain events and high humidity. Nothing to be done about it except mulch up the leaves as they fall. 

We have also seen random branches dying back on some big oaks. Squirrels had girdled the limbs chewing the cambium under the bark... guess they’re running low on nuts. Seems nature is always throwing us a curveball. 

Late Summer Lawn Care

Last month we reminded you that grub worms are most vulnerable in August and that is an optimal time to treat. The window is still open for a few more weeks and then the grubs will move deeper into the soil and also become larger and tougher to kill. Call ASAP if you want a grub treatment.

As evenings start to cool in late September and on through November, watch for irregular circular brown spots in St. Augustine during rainy weather. Brown patch is a common fungus that can do severe damage to your lawn going into winter. Take-all patch also becomes active in fall. If you had areas that were stunted and slow to green up in the spring you may have take-all patch. 

Topdressing the lawn with peat moss to increase acidity at the soil surface is an organic remedy for take-all, and there are chemical fungicides for brown patch. 

Spurge is a flat broadleaf weed that sprouts in July-August after a good rain. Fast growing and difficult to control, this is the dominant weed problem we are seeing at this time. Your next application will contain a broadleaf spray to help control this if you have any in your lawn. One reason that late summer weeds like spurge are hard to control is that most herbicides will damage the lawn in hot weather. Celsius or similar sulfonylurea herbicides are about the only option for weed control with minimal turf stress.

Moonflower- A 'Weed' Worth Considering

You may be familiar with the white flowering morning glory called Moonflower vine, Ipomoea alba, which opens at night and may be found in nurseries. And although I’ll give this fine vine a tip of the hat, there is a native shrubby perennial that can be even showier and requires no special care- Datura, aka Jimsonweed, Moonflower, or Thorn–apple.

There are 9 species of Datura, Datura wrightii is the most likely one to find growing wild in our area, but they don’t seem to be common. I found one some 38 years ago growing in a field in south Arlington and still have it’s progeny in various spots in my gardens.

Granted, it seeds prolifically and needs to be contained, and all parts are poisonous, so you might avoid it if you have small children. But it is happy in a well drained soil with virtually no water, and I simply cut my seed pods (the thorn-apples) off periodically before they open to reduce having to weed out unwanted additions. The huge flowers audibly pop open at dusk and are the preferred nectar of the hawk moth. 

Not a plant for everyone, but worth a look for the adventurous. 

Ryegrass and Fescue Season Starts in September

Over-seeding with ryegrass for the winter sets your home or business apart from the crowd. Over-seeded lawns normally have fewer winter weed issues as weed seeds have a difficult time germinating in the thick green cover provided by healthy turf. Typical winter weather usually brings enough rainfall to keep your rye green with little or no supplemental watering once established. And a green winter lawn creates a nice foreground or background for early spring flowers such as daffodils, dogwoods, Mexican plums, azaleas, and spiraeas.

There are 2 primary types of rye seed available, annual and perennial. Annual rye seed is the one most commonly used but will need to be mowed every week in the spring as its rate of growth is quite fast.

Perennial rye is more refined, with a darker green color and slower rate of growth, but sometimes is more difficult to get it to germinate. In our area the term perennial is not accurate in regards to rye, as most burn out by June. In shady areas or if we have prolonged cool, wet weather into the summer, ryegrass may persist longer. 

The normal preparation for over seeding is to mow the lawn a few notches lower and remove the clippings during the last half of September through October. This allows the seed to make better contact with the ground and improves germination. Depending on rainfall, the seed should be watered at least twice a week until it is up and growing. Once it is up, mowing requirements will vary depending on the weather and type of seed used. Mowing once every 14 days is usually the norm until about March. Light fertilizing in December and February will really enhance the appearance, especially if we are having a dry winter.

Call us for a free quote if you would like a lush green  lawn this winter.

Fescue is a northern grass that struggles here in July and August, but there are transitional mixes now that are an option for heavily shaded yards where St. Augustine just will not make it. If you have heavy shade and really prefer a lawn there instead of groundcovers or a shade garden, then fescue may be a fit for you. Like rye, it will germinate now and establish during the winter and spring months. 

As mentioned, it thins out in our hottest months and does need regular watering, but simply reseed each fall to thicken it back up.

September Chores

• Mow weekly and mulch up leaves
• Water weekly
• Treat fire ants
• Overseed rye grass
• Apply weed pre-emergent and fall fertilizer
• Sow wildflower seeds for spring

Fall Lawn Treatments- The Most Important Application of the Year

It's not too late to schedule the most important lawn application of the year!

If you are on our regular lawn application program you will be receiving an application of pre-emergent weed control in September-October.

This is the most important lawn application of the year! Winter weeds begin germinating in September and October, and depending on weather conditions may not be noticeable until spring. But if you want the best chance of reducing or eliminating those unsightly weeds you see in March, you must treat the seeds now!

Dandelions, thistles, henbit, chickweed, oxalis, rescue grass, and poa annua are the biggest culprits in our spring gallery of weed problems, and most of these seeds will start sprouting when soil temperatures at the surface drop below 70 degrees. It doesn’t take too many days of cool cloudy weather to achieve this, so timing is critical.

Pre-emergents never provide 100% control, but they will make a big difference. Pre-emergents work by creating a chemical barrier in the soil that kills the seedling as it starts to emerge. This application may be combined with a broadleaf weed post emergent control to kill any that have already sprouted. Heavy rains or wet winters may dilute or move the chemical barrier deeper in the soil sometimes reducing effectiveness.

Don't let those pesky weeds get the drop on you!

Our Fall application also includes fertilizers to get your lawn ready for dormancy. Nitrogen helps thicken the lawn and smother weeds, and potassium builds stronger root systems to help your lawn through hard freezes and promote early green-up in spring.

Call us today if you would like to schedule a fall application for your lawn. (817)461-4000

Fire Ants - Here to Stay, What You Can Do

Fire ants came out with a vengeance after the October rains. This is a typical pattern, where the ants are less active in hot dry summer conditions and begin foraging and spreading aggressively as weather cools and soil moisture rises. Fire ants cannot be eliminated, they can only be managed. Sad, but true. Queens can fly and move their colonies up to 3 miles and may do so several times a year. It is impossible to keep ants from migrating into a property. Colonies may also dig as deep as 10 feet into the ground, and 3-4 foot deep is common. Other than using bait products that workers can carry to the queens hidden deep underground, it is virtually impossible to poison an entire mound.

Call to schedule a treatment today while conditions are still optimal!

This is a great time to apply bait-type controls. The ants will be very active through the remainder of November – December,foraging for winter, and will carry baits to the queens. Baits have a minimal environmental impact and offer long term control, up to 80-90% effectiveness. The Texas Department of Agriculture’s “Texas Two Step” recommends treating individual mounds that are in problem areas with a mound treatment and to broadcast bait products throughout the entire area. The other proven method is to broadcast fipronil across the entire property or around the perimeters of larger properties to create a chemical barrier effective for up to 8 months. Ants die as they tunnel or cross through the barrier. Fipronil can also offer up to 80% effectiveness and a longer residual effect, but is also somewhat more expensive.

Fire ants are not just annoying, they are destructive and dangerous. They can inflict serious and painful injury to young children and adults who may be allergic, and are renown for colonizing outdoor electrical equipment and shorting it out.

It's Time To Treat For Grub Worms

Don’t forget! August is the time of year to treat for grub worms.

Most of our grub damage is brought on by the larva of the June beetle. Peak flights of the June beetle occur in mid-May to mid-June and eggs hatch about 1 month later. Grubs are easiest to kill at this early stage of their growth when they are closer to the soil surface.

Not every yard will have a large enough population to cause damage, but if you have had one in the past you may be in a location that is prone to infestation.

Lawns close to street lights where June bugs gather are often hit hard, and ironically, they often attack well watered lush lawns when soil is soft and food (roots) is abundant.

They will do serious damage to turf over the next two months, so treat now to avoid losing your lawn.

Prices start at just $75.00 for lawns up to 4,000 sq. ft., with up to 50% off for customers that are already on our 7 step chemical program!

An actual soil sample from one of our lawns.
This many grubs in 1 sq. ft. of soil is enough to do serious damage.

Fall Pre-emergent and Fertilizer - The Most Important Application

If you are on our regular lawn application program you will be receiving an application of pre-emergent weed control in September— October. If you are not on our full service program, call today to schedule.

This is the most important lawn application of the year!

Winter weeds begin germinating in September and October, and depending on weather conditions may not be noticeable until spring. But if you want the best chance of reducing or eliminating those unsightly weeds you see in March, you must treat the seeds now!

Dandelions, thistles, henbit, chickweed, oxalis, rescue grass, and poa annua are the biggest culprits in our spring gallery of weed problems, and most of these seeds will start sprouting when soil temperatures at the surface drop below 70 degrees. It doesn’t take too many days of cool cloudy weather to achieve this, so timing is critical.

Pre-emergents rarely offer 100% control, but they will make a big difference. Pre-emergents work by creating a chemical barrier in the soil that kills the seedling as it starts to emerge. This application is normally combined with a broadleaf weed post-emergent control to kill any that have already sprouted. Heavy rains or wet winters may dilute or move the chemical barrier deeper in the soil sometimes reducing effectiveness.

Our fall application also includes fertilizers to get your lawn ready for dormancy. Nitrogen helps thicken the lawn and smother weeds, and potassium builds stronger root systems to help your lawn through hard freezes and promote early green-up in spring.