Over-seeding with ryegrass for the winter is a popular practice
that benefits your lawn and sets your home or business apart from
the crowd.
Over-seeded lawns have fewer winter weed issues as
weed seeds have a difficult time germinating in the thick green
cover provided by healthy turf. You might enjoy the fact that winter
normally brings enough rainfall to keep your rye green with little or
no supplemental watering once established.
A green winter lawn also creates a nice foreground or background
for early spring flowers such as daffodils, dogwoods, Mexican
plums, azaleas, and spiraeas. Even Christmas lighting is more
attractive when framed by lush green grass instead of dormant
brown lawn.
There are 2 primary types of rye seed available, annual and perennial.
Annual rye seed is the one most commonly used but will
need to be mowed every week in the spring as its rate of growth is
quite fast. Perennial rye is more refined, with a darker green color
and slower rate of growth, but sometimes is more difficult to get it
to germinate. In our area the term perennial is not accurate in
regards to rye, as most ryegrasses burn out by June. In shady
areas or if we have prolonged
cool, wet weather
into the summer, ryegrass
may persist longer.
The normal preparation for
over seeding is to mow the
lawn a few notches lower
and rake or bag the clippings
during the last half of
September through October. This allows the seed to make better
contact with the ground and improves germination. Depending on
rainfall, the seed should be watered at least twice a week until it is
up and growing. Once it is up, mowing requirements will vary depending
on the weather and type of seed used. Mowing once
every 14 days is usually the norm. Light fertilizing in December
and February will really enhance the appearance, especially if we
are having a dry winter.
Call us for a free quote if you would like a lush green winter lawn
this year.
Tuesday, September 10, 2013
Ryegrass Season Starts in September
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Late Summer Lawn Care
Last month we reminded you that grub worms are most vulnerable in August and that is an optimal time to treat.
Well, we have seen several infestations, so you may want to consider treating now while the window is still open.
As evenings start to cool in late September and on through November, watch for irregular circular brown spots in St. Augustine during rainy weather. Brown patch is a common fungus that can do severe damage to your lawn going into winter. In fact, since take-all patch also becomes active in fall, you should consider a preventative fungicide application. We have professional products that are labeled for both problems, and it is much better to treat proactively. Once take-all patch has infected the roots, there is virtually no way to save the lawn.
Spurge is a flat broadleaf weed that sprouts in July-August after a good rain. Fast growing and difficult to control, this is the dominant weed problem we are seeing at this time. Your next application will contain a broadleaf spray to help control this if you have any in your lawn.
One reason that late summer weeds like spurge are hard to control is that most herbicides will damage the lawn in hot weather. Celsius or similar sulfonylureas are about the only option for weed control with minimal turf stress.
As evenings start to cool in late September and on through November, watch for irregular circular brown spots in St. Augustine during rainy weather. Brown patch is a common fungus that can do severe damage to your lawn going into winter. In fact, since take-all patch also becomes active in fall, you should consider a preventative fungicide application. We have professional products that are labeled for both problems, and it is much better to treat proactively. Once take-all patch has infected the roots, there is virtually no way to save the lawn.
Spurge is a flat broadleaf weed that sprouts in July-August after a good rain. Fast growing and difficult to control, this is the dominant weed problem we are seeing at this time. Your next application will contain a broadleaf spray to help control this if you have any in your lawn.
One reason that late summer weeds like spurge are hard to control is that most herbicides will damage the lawn in hot weather. Celsius or similar sulfonylureas are about the only option for weed control with minimal turf stress.
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Reliving the 70s with a little help from his spurge |
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Fall Bird Feeding
The fall and spring migrations give even the most casual bird
watcher an opportunity to see
unique birds that may only be
here for a short time.
Keeping a feeder or two stocked and a source of water will keep colorful characters interacting in your garden all year, and they may be especially noticeable when deciduous plants lose their foliage.
We have a great assortment of year-round residents that appreciate the extra forage in winter- cardinals, chickadees, wrens, dove, titmice, downy woodpeckers, jays, and red bellied sapsuckers to name a few. But any bird feeder has the potential to draw in visitors from far away during the migration. Common guests may include juncos, cedar waxwings, yellow rump warblers, red breasted nuthatches, goldfinches, orange crowned warblers, and more. Some may hang around for days, some may stop in only briefly, but seeing a bird you have never seen before can be quite a thrill.
Be sure your feeders are located in an area convenient for viewing and pick up a good identification guide.
Different seed blends can attract different species, and many of our ornamental shrubs provide forage for certain species too—cedar waxwings are famous for lighting on a mahonia bealei in late winter and quickly removing the ripe fruits. A flurry of activity like this adds interest and excitement to any garden.
A great source of information on birding can be found at your local Audubon Society, www.FWAS.org
“If you build it, they will come.” Including squirrels too, unfortunately!
Keeping a feeder or two stocked and a source of water will keep colorful characters interacting in your garden all year, and they may be especially noticeable when deciduous plants lose their foliage.
We have a great assortment of year-round residents that appreciate the extra forage in winter- cardinals, chickadees, wrens, dove, titmice, downy woodpeckers, jays, and red bellied sapsuckers to name a few. But any bird feeder has the potential to draw in visitors from far away during the migration. Common guests may include juncos, cedar waxwings, yellow rump warblers, red breasted nuthatches, goldfinches, orange crowned warblers, and more. Some may hang around for days, some may stop in only briefly, but seeing a bird you have never seen before can be quite a thrill.
Be sure your feeders are located in an area convenient for viewing and pick up a good identification guide.
Different seed blends can attract different species, and many of our ornamental shrubs provide forage for certain species too—cedar waxwings are famous for lighting on a mahonia bealei in late winter and quickly removing the ripe fruits. A flurry of activity like this adds interest and excitement to any garden.
A great source of information on birding can be found at your local Audubon Society, www.FWAS.org
![]() |
“If you build it, they will come.” Including squirrels too, unfortunately!
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Veggie Gardening
This was another great year for vegetable gardeners, at least through the spring. June and July have been pretty dry but our gardens got regular rainfall and mild weather all winter and spring, making for some prime conditions.
You might be thinking, why talk about it now? “I’ll plant a few peppers and tomatoes next April.”
If you wait until then though, you miss out on a great gardening season.
If your soil is ready to go, you can plant tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, corn, beans, and squash in early August for fall dinners, and cool season plants like spinach, lettuce, carrots, radish, and sugar snap peas in September - October for late fall and winter harvesting. I even plant carrots at 1 month intervals starting in September through November and have fresh carrots to eat from December through March.
Depending on what kind of winter we have, you can start planting onions, cabbage and other cool season plants in December - February. Just keep a frost blanket handy in case we get a hard freeze for several days.
Most winters give us regular rain and mild conditions, perfect for plants like broccoli, spinach, and lettuce that just can’t take our summer heat.
Incidentally, kids get a thrill from planting a seed and seeing a plant grow from that simple act. A garden is a great real-life classroom for them to learn about natural processes. And who knows? It may even entice them to eat something they have refused in the past if they grow it themselves!
You might be thinking, why talk about it now? “I’ll plant a few peppers and tomatoes next April.”
If you wait until then though, you miss out on a great gardening season.
If your soil is ready to go, you can plant tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, corn, beans, and squash in early August for fall dinners, and cool season plants like spinach, lettuce, carrots, radish, and sugar snap peas in September - October for late fall and winter harvesting. I even plant carrots at 1 month intervals starting in September through November and have fresh carrots to eat from December through March.
Depending on what kind of winter we have, you can start planting onions, cabbage and other cool season plants in December - February. Just keep a frost blanket handy in case we get a hard freeze for several days.
Most winters give us regular rain and mild conditions, perfect for plants like broccoli, spinach, and lettuce that just can’t take our summer heat.
![]() |
A spring harvest from the Hoover veggie patch. This year was great for broccoli, lettuce, cabbage, and carrots. |
Incidentally, kids get a thrill from planting a seed and seeing a plant grow from that simple act. A garden is a great real-life classroom for them to learn about natural processes. And who knows? It may even entice them to eat something they have refused in the past if they grow it themselves!
![]() |
"Hmmm, maybe fruits and veggies aren't so bad after all" |
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Location:
Fort Worth, TX 76112, USA
Planning For Fall Projects
Every year we like to remind customers that
Fall is an excellent time for landscape improvements.
Everyone gets spring fever and
enjoys freshening up their yard in spring, but
well informed gardeners know that Fall is
really the best season for planting most of our
landscape ornamentals. Trees, shrubs, and
perennials that are planted in September
through December get to take advantage of our
traditionally mild temperatures and regular
rains.
Plants that go in the ground in the Fall have reduced heat stress now and are better equipped to handle the inevitable dry conditions of next summer. Although most plants will show little or no top growth during the winter, it’s what is going on in the ground that counts. Root systems thrive in our mild Fall weather and grow vigorously all winter, giving you bigger, healthier plants next year.

Plants that go in the ground in the Fall have reduced heat stress now and are better equipped to handle the inevitable dry conditions of next summer. Although most plants will show little or no top growth during the winter, it’s what is going on in the ground that counts. Root systems thrive in our mild Fall weather and grow vigorously all winter, giving you bigger, healthier plants next year.
![]() |
Use these hot days of August to make plans for your fall landscape projects. |
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August Lawn Chores
- Mow weekly and do not bag the clippings
- Hand water newly planted areas and trees
- Watch for dry areas and signs of chinch bugs in turf
- Check and adjust sprinkler systems (don't forget to mind your city's water restrictions!)
- Mulch planting beds
- Treat for grub worms
![]() |
Fresh mulch and adequate water keeping it green! |
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August- The Toughest Month
Sun worshippers may love it, but gardeners
know the next 30 days will likely be
the hardest part of our season.
Barring hurricane spawned rain events, August is traditionally our hottest, driest month. So, repeat after me, the Texas gardener’s mantra: Mulch is good, I love my water hose. Mulch is good, I love my water hose…
We actually had a great week of rain mid-July and not a lot of extreme heat so far. Just keep an eye on tender plants like hydrangeas or newly planted trees and shrubs, and check your sprinklers regularly for clogged nozzles, worn out rotors, low heads, heads blocked by shrubs, etc. It only takes a week or so to do serious damage to lawns and landscapes that are not receiving enough water, so stay alert!
Barring hurricane spawned rain events, August is traditionally our hottest, driest month. So, repeat after me, the Texas gardener’s mantra: Mulch is good, I love my water hose. Mulch is good, I love my water hose…
We actually had a great week of rain mid-July and not a lot of extreme heat so far. Just keep an eye on tender plants like hydrangeas or newly planted trees and shrubs, and check your sprinklers regularly for clogged nozzles, worn out rotors, low heads, heads blocked by shrubs, etc. It only takes a week or so to do serious damage to lawns and landscapes that are not receiving enough water, so stay alert!
![]() |
You can't beat old fashion hand watering! |
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It's Time To Treat For Grub Worms
Don’t forget! August is the time of year to treat for grub worms.
Most of our grub damage is brought on by the larva of the June beetle. Peak flights of the June beetle occur in mid-May to mid-June and eggs hatch about 1 month later. Grubs are easiest to kill at this early stage of their growth when they are closer to the soil surface.
Not every yard will have a large enough population to cause damage, but if you have had one in the past you may be in a location that is prone to infestation.
Lawns close to street lights where June bugs gather are often hit hard, and ironically, they often attack well watered lush lawns when soil is soft and food (roots) is abundant.
They will do serious damage to turf over the next two months, so treat now to avoid losing your lawn.
Prices start at just $75.00 for lawns up to 4,000 sq. ft., with up to 50% off for customers that are already on our 7 step chemical program!
Most of our grub damage is brought on by the larva of the June beetle. Peak flights of the June beetle occur in mid-May to mid-June and eggs hatch about 1 month later. Grubs are easiest to kill at this early stage of their growth when they are closer to the soil surface.
Not every yard will have a large enough population to cause damage, but if you have had one in the past you may be in a location that is prone to infestation.
Lawns close to street lights where June bugs gather are often hit hard, and ironically, they often attack well watered lush lawns when soil is soft and food (roots) is abundant.
They will do serious damage to turf over the next two months, so treat now to avoid losing your lawn.
Prices start at just $75.00 for lawns up to 4,000 sq. ft., with up to 50% off for customers that are already on our 7 step chemical program!
![]() |
An actual soil sample from one of our lawns. This many grubs in 1 sq. ft. of soil is enough to do serious damage. |
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Fall Pre-emergent and Fertilizer - The Most Important Application
If you are on our regular lawn application
program you will be receiving an application
of pre-emergent weed control in September—
October. If you are not on our full
service program, call today to schedule.
This is the most important lawn application of the year!
Winter weeds begin germinating in September and October, and depending on weather conditions may not be noticeable until spring. But if you want the best chance of reducing or eliminating those unsightly weeds you see in March, you must treat the seeds now!
Dandelions, thistles, henbit, chickweed, oxalis, rescue grass, and poa annua are the biggest culprits in our spring gallery of weed problems, and most of these seeds will start sprouting when soil temperatures at the surface drop below 70 degrees. It doesn’t take too many days of cool cloudy weather to achieve this, so timing is critical.
Pre-emergents rarely offer 100% control, but they will make a big difference. Pre-emergents work by creating a chemical barrier in the soil that kills the seedling as it starts to emerge. This application is normally combined with a broadleaf weed post-emergent control to kill any that have already sprouted. Heavy rains or wet winters may dilute or move the chemical barrier deeper in the soil sometimes reducing effectiveness.
Our fall application also includes fertilizers to get your lawn ready for dormancy. Nitrogen helps thicken the lawn and smother weeds, and potassium builds stronger root systems to help your lawn through hard freezes and promote early green-up in spring.
This is the most important lawn application of the year!
Winter weeds begin germinating in September and October, and depending on weather conditions may not be noticeable until spring. But if you want the best chance of reducing or eliminating those unsightly weeds you see in March, you must treat the seeds now!
Dandelions, thistles, henbit, chickweed, oxalis, rescue grass, and poa annua are the biggest culprits in our spring gallery of weed problems, and most of these seeds will start sprouting when soil temperatures at the surface drop below 70 degrees. It doesn’t take too many days of cool cloudy weather to achieve this, so timing is critical.
Pre-emergents rarely offer 100% control, but they will make a big difference. Pre-emergents work by creating a chemical barrier in the soil that kills the seedling as it starts to emerge. This application is normally combined with a broadleaf weed post-emergent control to kill any that have already sprouted. Heavy rains or wet winters may dilute or move the chemical barrier deeper in the soil sometimes reducing effectiveness.
Our fall application also includes fertilizers to get your lawn ready for dormancy. Nitrogen helps thicken the lawn and smother weeds, and potassium builds stronger root systems to help your lawn through hard freezes and promote early green-up in spring.
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Tuesday, September 3, 2013
Fall - A Great Season For Gardening
August gets a B+ this year, with our hot streak
taking a rain break around the middle of the
month and evenings dipping into the seventies.
This doesn’t mean that hot weather is gone for
good, but it appears that things are easing and
we can get back to enjoying our yards and start
our fall gardening projects.
I get as excited about this time of year as I do spring, and it always seems to fly by just as quickly.
Get those fall veggies planted, prune out the sun burnt stuff, and get the fall pre-emergent and fertilizers put out. Plant trees, shrubs, groundcovers, and new lawns, but—we have to control ourselves and hold off on pansies until no earlier than October.
You should have plenty to do as the days get shorter, and soon enough you’ll be able to enjoy a cool evening around your outdoor fire pit.
Wait—you don’t have one of those yet? Hmmm, maybe you better give us a call!
I get as excited about this time of year as I do spring, and it always seems to fly by just as quickly.
Get those fall veggies planted, prune out the sun burnt stuff, and get the fall pre-emergent and fertilizers put out. Plant trees, shrubs, groundcovers, and new lawns, but—we have to control ourselves and hold off on pansies until no earlier than October.
You should have plenty to do as the days get shorter, and soon enough you’ll be able to enjoy a cool evening around your outdoor fire pit.
Wait—you don’t have one of those yet? Hmmm, maybe you better give us a call!
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Location:
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